I am new to the forum and relatively new to photography, and most of my action shots are turning out to be blurred. i was wondering if anyone had any tips to get a sharp image of a moving subject
Action Shots
Started by stevenlomax1984, Jun 03 2008 05:03 PM
5 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 03 June 2008 - 05:03 PM
#2
Posted 03 June 2008 - 07:15 PM
QUOTE (stevenlomax1984 @ Jun 3 2008, 06:03 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I am new to the forum and relatively new to photography, and most of my action shots are turning out to be blurred. i was wondering if anyone had any tips to get a sharp image of a moving subject
What type of camera are you using? There's quite a difference for something like this between SLR and compact.
For a compact, I'd recommend switching to a "kids and pets" or "sports" mode if you have it. That will give you a fast shutter speed (i think I'm right saying that), something that a compact only gives you limited control over, and will in some cases allow the autofocus to track the subject (I'm probably a phillistine for even suggesting it
For an SLR... I haven't a clue as I haven't got one yet!
#3
Posted 11 August 2008 - 01:45 PM
Hi, you will also benefit from learning to pan (follow the action) with your camera. The blur is caused by the target moving between the time the shutter opens and closes. If you can ramp up the shutter speed you will have more change of a clear shot but you might lose some of the atmosphere of the shot as it may not look like it is in motion.
If you can practice panning, which means lock on to your target through the view finder and follow it until you shoot, remember to follow through even after you have clicked otherwise you may well still get a blur. If you get this right you will get a clear shot of the target and a blur from everything else showing the target was in motion.
Hope that makes sense!
If you can practice panning, which means lock on to your target through the view finder and follow it until you shoot, remember to follow through even after you have clicked otherwise you may well still get a blur. If you get this right you will get a clear shot of the target and a blur from everything else showing the target was in motion.
Hope that makes sense!
#4
Posted 30 August 2008 - 06:35 PM
Now , more than hand work , you should afcours need agood camera , i mean like it does not even need any good hand to jeyt blurr free images if you have some good camera , try to get some cyber shot taht has 180 degree auto focus , taht should be expensive , but you are into photography , arent you ?
#5
Posted 01 September 2008 - 01:57 PM
hey , blurr images are also for the day in time you have taken teh pictture , it is like if you try taking apicture just at the sunset , you get your stuff blurred too , take care of te situation too , just camera wouldnt be enough.
#6
Posted 03 September 2008 - 04:30 AM
We shoot over 100,000 action images a year. Rodeo, River Rafting, and Sports.
Images blurring is either the subject is faster than your shutter or camera movement (also moving faster than the shutter). To stop action you need to be at a faster shutter speed than your subject is moving. This can be done several ways each has pros and cons.
1 - Higher ISO. A higher ISO lets you expose with less light and gives you a faster shutter speed. The downside is quality loss that is visible in larger prints.
2 - Larger Aperture: F 2.0 or 2.8 will give you more light also. Downside here is price. A 300 2.8 lens will run you $4000.00 to $6000.00. A 2.0 will be double that.
3 - Shoot in brighter light. Easier said than done I know but lots of light is the key to stopping the action.
IS lenses and mono pods will help and of course learning to pan and follow the action. You can stop most "people action" at 750 sec to 1000 sec with a mono pod. I tell all my photographers to try for 1000 to be safe.
Good luck!
WB
Images blurring is either the subject is faster than your shutter or camera movement (also moving faster than the shutter). To stop action you need to be at a faster shutter speed than your subject is moving. This can be done several ways each has pros and cons.
1 - Higher ISO. A higher ISO lets you expose with less light and gives you a faster shutter speed. The downside is quality loss that is visible in larger prints.
2 - Larger Aperture: F 2.0 or 2.8 will give you more light also. Downside here is price. A 300 2.8 lens will run you $4000.00 to $6000.00. A 2.0 will be double that.
3 - Shoot in brighter light. Easier said than done I know but lots of light is the key to stopping the action.
IS lenses and mono pods will help and of course learning to pan and follow the action. You can stop most "people action" at 750 sec to 1000 sec with a mono pod. I tell all my photographers to try for 1000 to be safe.
Good luck!
WB
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