Nikon Coolpix L820
Nikon Coolpix P520
Panasonic Lumix DMC-TZ40
Nikon Coolpix L320
Fujifilm FinePix S1 Review
Samsung NX30 Review
Samsung WB350F Review
Nikon Df Review
Nikon D3300 Review
Buy a FinePix HS10 Black Digital Camera (10.3 Megapixel - 7.6 cm 3" Active Matrix TFT Colour LCD - 30x Optical Zoom - 2x)
Buy a FinePix HS10 10.3 Megapixel Bridge Camera - Black (3" LCD - 30x Optical Zoom - 3648 x 2736 Image - 1920 x 1080 Video - HDMI - HD Movie Mode)
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Check the speed with which people are judging this camera. They move from a DSLR which they’ve had for years and then expect to get brilliant pics overnight from this. It is a compromise, but having used it for over a month and learned where it works best, it is a brilliant camera. I speak as someone who’s owned a 5D Mk 2 and many compact cameras. Don’t expect full-frame detail. A bit of CA can be taken out in PP very, very easily. 10 frames per second? 720mm zoom? One camera, not a kitbag. The best camera is the one you have with you…
10:03 am - Tuesday, June 1, 2010
I couldn’t agree with you any more, byeye. Too many people don’t do fair comparisons. Please compare apples to apples. I’ve had mine for over a month and just love it too death. It’s not perfect but every camera has flaws somewhere. Everyone I show my pictures to asks me what kind of camera I have because they love my pics. Fuji had the guts to listen to many photographers and provide us a camera that does not need extra lenses and what do they get for it? Alot of Hooey if you ask me.
12:45 pm - Tuesday, June 1, 2010
Thanks Chris. I posted a few pics on flickr (see URL)taken with the HS10. Quite happy with these!
1:23 pm - Tuesday, June 1, 2010
Thanks for sharing ... did you tried to shot in RAW? ... the one with the dog looks like it could benefit from it (fur is smudged by noise reduction) ... or did you used digital zoom? or cropped?
I’m used to smudged images from my mobilephone… not pleasant, but if it’s for small prints they may not be detectable…
Anyway, lovely shots you got there :3
2:20 pm - Tuesday, June 1, 2010
Thanks for your comments zebarnabe. This was taken pre-firmware upgrade and was a jpeg. I’ve tried RAW and I’m sure it’ll be great when they support the HS10 in Lightroom - hate the supplied software interface!
2:29 pm - Tuesday, June 1, 2010
constructive criticism is fine just try to remember where we have come over the last few years. This is my third fuji super zoom. S5000, S8000fd and now HS10 each has been released at $499.99 allowing for inflation this is a real 20% drop in cost. We live in a golden age for the digital photographer and it just keeps getting better.
Go back a bit further
FUJI DS-100 – 1991. Digital memory card camera. 1/2-inch, 390K pixel CCD. Price, about $5,000. Fuji sold a $2500 dedicated card drive for the Fuji DS-100
Very Happy HS10 owner
1:36 pm - Wednesday, June 2, 2010
I bought my HS10 in order to avoid lugging a DSLR kit (Body, 15-85mm Lens, 55-250 lens, 200mm f2.8 lens, 2x Tele Extender, etc.,) while on a tour of the desert SW USA. The trip was from 2000’ to 10K’ above sea level. At my age and condition, carrying enough h2o and DSLR camera equipment threatened to result in hospitalization along the way. I took the HS10 and a G11 backup - didn’t need the G11 - along with extra batteries, a Blackberry and iPod in a backpack. Eight days and 724, very satisfactory, photos later, my small backpack and I flew back home. The HS10 performed better than expected - twilight photos of a mule deer fawn at ISO 800 were tack sharp, panoramas and HD videos of the Grand Canyon were super, and virtually all stills were keepers. I was able to go everywhere I wanted and get the photos I wanted. My DSLR kit may have given me sharper photos, but I can’t complain about the HS10 results, from super macros of wild flowers to a 720mm zoom of the rapids at the bottom of the Grand Canyon.
8:05 pm - Friday, June 4, 2010
What a shame pricing. Nikon Coolpix P100 could easily found at $359.00 and Olympus SP800UZ could found $329.00.
Both equally good if not better image quality.
Fujifilm finepix HS10 has a little advantage on real DSLR feel but way over priced at 459.00 the cheapest could be found online. I would say 399.00 is fair and people will stay at bay with one penny extra.
10:09 pm - Wednesday, June 9, 2010
I have just received my new HS10 and had a good work through and been seeing some great results, the HS10 is easy to use and feels great, the wide angle to moderate is impressive, it’s only on the extreme telephoto settings it’s not as good, but as I am not likely to use them lengths that much it does not bother me, the video fine but not the best but it will meet my needs, overall it’s money well spent and I am pleased I waited for the HS10, I had to wait a long time and nearly gave up and bought a different camera.
1:38 pm - Thursday, June 10, 2010
Why do my movies taken with HS10 show fine in camera but not compatible with computer and appear broken up. Not had this problem with S5700 previously.
11:38 pm - Friday, June 11, 2010
Yes JayBee, mine does the same thing if it’s HD. If you upload it to YouTube it will be just fine. Not sure why. I would like to get the HD HDMI cable to directly hookup yo TV and see if it still does it.
11:52 pm - Friday, June 11, 2010
I dropped the resolution of the movie settings and that seemed to work on the computer but now no sound! When I get something worth uploading I will try YouTube or Facebook.
12:27 pm - Saturday, June 12, 2010
Chegou minha HS10 fujifilm hoje,12/06/2010 e ainda estou iniciando,mas de cara coloquei o cartao as pilhas e tirei diversas fotos em seguida coloquei no me notebook Sony Vaio e gostei dos primeiros resultados.
Obs:Li diversas vezes este forum,acho que umas 3 vezes todos os comentarios e decidi pela HS10,sei que tem limitacoes em qualidade ao comparar com DSLR,mas estou contente com o tudo em um.
Obrigado forum,obrigado Zebarnabe e todos.
10:32 pm - Saturday, June 12, 2010
@JayBee and Chris,
I downloaded some samples from a chinese website and they run quite well…
If you guys can see fullHD movies on youtube on fullscreen and without hiccups, then your PC can handle the task and what you guys may be lacking is some codecs or a media player with integrated codecs… for free you guys have several choices: download one of those All-in-One codec packs available everywhere (be careful with spyware/adware) or download VLC Player or KMPlayer… both free…
If it plays with hiccups or A/V sync issues, try recoding it to a lighter format, like MPEG4 (XviD or DivX) with MP3 or AC3 stereo sound… it will take some time and some quality will be lost, but then you can watch it everywhere (remember to keep the same frame rate to avoid temporal artifacts and quality loss)...
De nada :3 ... a minha encomendei-a há quase 3 semanas atrás e ainda nem saiu do fornecedor… :(
11:52 pm - Saturday, June 12, 2010
Yes JayBee, when I drop the resolution it fixes it but I want to watch it in HD.
1:49 am - Sunday, June 13, 2010
Some of the camera modes (top dial) surely work better than others. Often simply using the “auto” option does not produce the best images on various cameras. Beyond mode alone, there are so many other options with the HS10 that it will take time to try all of them.
It would interest me to know what combinations of settings work best for other people.
6:02 pm - Monday, June 14, 2010
I am planning to buy a new camera at the end of July as i have the Fuji S700 at the moment. I plan to get the HS10, but have a few questions…
Is it good in low light… like at a concert where i just want to see the person on stage and have a black background?
How would the quality be if i was to print at 4x6?
How is the sport setting quality?
10:18 pm - Wednesday, June 16, 2010
I used HS10 as a back up at weddings where flash isn’t allowed and so far have been impressed with the natural colours. I used a tripod, of course,and the SP setting for low light without flash.
Today I used it at full zoom, hand held, and took a police helicopter flying overhead. Wow!
11:53 pm - Wednesday, June 16, 2010
I upgraded from the S700 and am impressed with the HS 10. I noticed a big difference between the 2 and yes it takes great low light pics. I can see it doesn’t over expose the pics like the S700 did outside on a bright day. I used to have to adjust the exposure lower all the time and used the Shutter priority all the time. So far with the HS 10 I haven’t had to take it out of yhe auto setting much at all. Also no Chromatic abberation. I did not like the purple hazing that would mess with the S700.
11:59 pm - Wednesday, June 16, 2010
Ate o momento 210 cliques e nada do que reclamar,usei modos AUTO e SRAUTO,tiros em paisagem diurno e noturno,zoom e grande angular e algumas fotos de pessoas,simplesmente acima da expectativa,por enquanto estou orgulhoso com a HS10.
2:44 am - Thursday, June 17, 2010
Erro acima( nao zoom grande angular)tiros com zoom,e tambem em grande angular.
2:51 am - Thursday, June 17, 2010
It’s better than most compacts at high ISO’s (ISO 800 is quite usable), however, any DSLR beats it quite easily…
4x6? Don’t need to worry… while image is a bit soft because of the massive lens, the 10MP are more than enough… you can go even bigger without any noticeable drop in quality… as long as you don’t push ISO too much…
Sport setting? hmm ... if you’re going to use a camera for sports, a dslr is better… but you can take some shots with it… just don’t expect miracles, it is sluggish on writing times, but the 10fps for 7 shots can be handy for some situations… ... If you are wondering if it can freeze action, it can, by pumping ISO one can decrease exposure time… but some noise is to be expected at ISO 800, increasing as one increases ISO… DSLR are better on this department as one can also have aperture on the play… (avoiding ISO increase and allowing a better selection of DoF)
Hope it helps…
9:51 am - Thursday, June 17, 2010
I’m sort of on a budget at the moment and can only afford about $560.
I’ll be attending a concert this summer, which is what i wanted to know about the sport setting…
or if you knew a better setting for concerts?
I’m not that big on image quality, because almost every picture i have printed has come out OK.
I mean i would like it to be more clear than my S700.
I was wondering… how long is the lense when not out?
They have this rule at the concert venue about certain lengths lol
I have my brother who lives with me, he is pretty useful when it comes to anything electronics.
So if i ever need any help… I will ask him for help and if he cant help… i will most definatly come here to ask.
3:59 pm - Thursday, June 17, 2010
guys i am really tempted to buy the hs10 but seeing ur comments has made me really confused.
what anyone here didnt suggest was an alternative of canon eos 1000d.
The price and size are almost d same..
1000d is a dSLR so you can expect much better IQ.
The lens is only 18-55mm..but if the camera is good enough i can invest later on on a 18-200mm and dat much zoom is sufficient for me..
But i also like the hd recording in hs10 plus good macro..
What do u say?? Plz help.
11:21 am - Saturday, June 19, 2010
Aayush - there’s nothing to be confused about. The HS10 is not an SLR. It has a much smaller sensor therefore lower IQ. If you’re printing up to 8x10 you may not notice, but as soon as you start cropping you’ll see it. If you are buying a zoom to 200mm and that’s all you need to go to, get a wider range zoom from 18-250 and then spend your money on a really good macro lens. But - it will cost you a lot more money and weigh over twice the amount altogether. The HD video recording is, however much I love the camera, no better than 720p in terms of equivalent quality so I wouldn’t let it distract you! Good shooting…
12:54 pm - Saturday, June 19, 2010
thanx for ur reply byeye..
so if you tell me that the IQ on the HS10 is descent then i will buy it..i also dont wanna go through the hassle of different lenses and the weight..
and also what is the shutter lag and shot to shot time in HS10??
1:50 pm - Saturday, June 19, 2010
aayush. You need to check the IQ for yourself! I’ve put a few shots up at : http://www.flickr.com/photos/byeye/sets/72157624172435270/ - feedback on the flickr page welcomed.
Shutter lag and shot to shot time is not fast - nothing close to a DSLR. If you want to use the camera for action use the 7 shot 10 frames/sec function - it’s very good but takes at least 15 secs to clear the buffer afterwards! Otherwise, make sure you have the latest firmware (on the Fuji site) and stick to jpegs for the quickest shot to shot time. RAW really slows things down.
Hope that helps.
3:10 pm - Saturday, June 19, 2010
I’ll try to answer both at the same time…
If compactness, image quality and low light performance are wanted, i’m afraid you’re budget won’t suffice, Micro Four Thirds cameras are quite on the spot, however they are expensive, GH1 with the premium 10x lens behaves quite well, however on dark places, GF1 bundled lens (20mm f/1.7) are quite good…
If you’ll be near the stage, GF1 would be perfect… the 40mm equivalent lens is compact and gives quite a natural field of view…. but once you get a little distance from stage it may be troublesome to capture a single subject…
GH1 10x lens are pretty versatile and allow smooth light changes on videos… also with new firmware hacks it becomes quite a beast… it has roughly a stop of advantage over the other m43 cameras… price is the main drawback…
With any of those above the budget required would be to much…
So… finding a compact with those features and price will be quite troublesome…
HS10 behaves better than most compacts in low light, but a premium compact like S90, G11 or LX3 give better sharpness (although they don’t possess the massive zoom) ... also in very low light, no current compact i know of can archive good images with fast shutter speeds…
A very good ‘compact’ camera for most of stuff is/was the S100fs…. it was not only discontinued but is very hard to find anywhere and price was 700€ at that time - S200 is the current replacement and HS10 has some of their heritage above it… but is not the same in terms of sharpness :/
G11 being a premium compact may be pleasant for you, but is old and video wise is not very good…
Following that though S90 is a bit cheaper and sensor is similar to G11 one, lens are the main change, it’s quite good (for a compact) at high ISOs…
LX3 is less of a low light performer and more a landscapes camera… wide shots are just plain gorgeous… that said, the sensor is big for a compact allowing a nice image quality… its fast aperture is also nice…
Back to DSLR realm ... a very nice camera is Pentax Kx, i’ve not read much about it, but it is praised for it’s image quality and good ISO behaviour… it’s a bit more than you’re budget but search for it and you may be lucky…
Going cheaper a Canon 450D might suffice for you… but remember that lens is what is costly on a DSLR… the 50mm f/1.8 Mark II lens is very nice
on low light it’s equivalent to 80mm on 450D or other APC sensor sized camera…
That puts us on the beggining, the main advantage of HS10 is the versatility… it’s a All-in-One camera… image quality wise there are better choices, low light performance while not bad, is not the best for moving subjects, it can do it, but results might not have the desired quality :/
Additionally video on the HS10 is not the best .... 1080p it’s nice if your camera is stationary since it is a relatively light camera, camera shake is easy to appear… specially when one makes use of the massive zoom…
A known issue with HS10 is the smudginess provoked by JPEG processor, firmware iterations helped, but not solved it… to ensure you have all detail you could have to shot in RAW… and that leaves us to…
Another drawback that HS10 has, that is not related with image quality, it’s shot to shot time is ‘standard’ mode is not the best… 1fps in the best case cenario ... if you shot RAW to help with the previous issue… 0.25fps ... quite bad if you are on a hurry…
To help solving the previous issue, HS10 has an high speed mode, where 7 shots are taken in 0.7secs (at least theoretically) ... fast indeed… but after that be prepared to wait 15secs and miss any action that might happen… also focus is not made for each frame, just the first…
Shutter lag after focus is quite small, but most of modern compacts are identical is this matter… focus time is not bad on HS10… but don’t compare it to an DSLR…
If shot to shot times are acceptable, then the only quirk one must handle is perhaps the lack of sharpness of the lens when compared with some premium compacts, specially at wide angle, where distortion correction blurs stuff quite a bit on the corners ...
Jeez ... this went quite big, so to avoid TL-DR:
- Manual control over zoom
- ISO 800 quality OK
- High speed mode at 10fps for 7 shots
- High speed video and FullHD video
- Nice controls on the back
- RAW availability
- AA batteries
- JPEG processor NR randomly smudges detail when it shouldn’t
- Write times could be better, or at least better use of buffer memory
- Sharpness on the corners, specially at wide angle
- Overall sharpness lower than what to be expected for a 500$ (400€ on my case) camera
- AA batteries (yes it can be both a disadvantage and an advantage)
- While low light modes give less noise, it requires certain conditions to be well applied (and can’t be applied on moving subjects)
- ISO 1600 and above are not very usable ... however they are not the worst seen on compact camera…
Sorry for the long answer… but to resume:
- If low light is your business, get a DSLR with some big aperture lens… there are some cheap lens that should do it…
- If sports is your business and light is not the ideal, get some DSLR with something like 70-200mm f/2.8 lens ... and be prepared to spend some serious money…
- If video is your deal, get a video camera ... or a Panasonic Lumix GH1 (if you don’t mind messing with firmware)
- If you want some thing cheaper something like Panasonic TZ7/TZ10 might cut it… an old Canon SX1/10 might also offer some nice results
I think this sums it up ... after 3 weeks waiting i now know that my camera will arrive to store supplier in 28th… and then i’ll have to wait to arrive to store ... *sigh*
3:32 pm - Saturday, June 19, 2010
boy, you really wrote something there..thanx..
just one more thing..how will you compare the sx20 to hs10?? many ppl are satisfied with sx20 but the sample images which i saw get pixelated in full size..
3:55 pm - Saturday, June 19, 2010
Thanks for that long answer.
I’m not the type to really judge a IQ.
If it is decent enough to get printed at 4x6, well i am happy.
The concert i am attending is over 5 hours long, so i think i have time.
The stage will be covered in lights, i even think there might be flames this year.
4:40 pm - Saturday, June 19, 2010
Oh yes, i forgot to mention. The venue doesnt allow DSLR’s. So i basically cant buy one.
4:42 pm - Saturday, June 19, 2010
From time to time, i check cameras in hope to find one to when i have the money to spend on one… SX20 was released in a date between those times ... however i read some reviews about it and checked some samples…. it did not impress me when compared with SX10 ... however it has video features… since it came out for quite some time, it may be cheaper enough for some folks to think about it… It never cut it out when it came out .. competition kinda crush it, and SX10 proved to be a better camera for the ones who don’t care about video…
But… i would go for a Panasonic if that was the question ... FZ28 was an awesome camera when it came out, FZ38 is a very good camera in terms of image sharpness, specially when compared with something like HS10 ...
SX1 is quite an interesting camera… one may say that CMOS it has is a bit noisier than SX10, however it is just perfect for video… and the shot to shot time is just plain awesome for a camera of its segment…
Comparing SX20 to HS10 is kinda hard to me… as i am a bit biased into not liking SX20, but considering factual data, i would say that JPEG kicks NR too early.. at ISO 400 and without RAW (SX1 has it, i don’t think SX20 has it… however CHDK may be available to enable it) details get a bit more smudged than they should… but… HS10 lens soften the image a bit ... and in wide angle HS10 can go horribly wrong in terms of sharpness.. also JPEG processor of HS10 is unpredictable, making some details smudged for no reason… in terms of speed ... SX20 has 1.1fps ... HS10 is quite dependent on the card ... but at best is 1fps… (until you try raw…)
Quoting a review about SX20: “Single shot-to-shot times (shoot, write, re-acquire focus and shoot) times were about 2.5 seconds with a SanDisk ExtremeIII 20MB/s card.”
Oh… i just remembered some camera that might please some people… Casio Exilim FH25 (or FH20 for older cheapness) ... 30fps continuous shooting 9-8MP… high speed movie modes gimmick ... however stills image quality has some issues…
In the end is all about the price one is willing to go and the compromises on is willing to take…
If i has the money i would go to a GH1 with a bunch of lens… or maybe a Canon 5D Mark II with a bunch of lens ... the issue with those is not quite the body… but the lens…
While i know quite something about photography by playing with old film cameras, i don’t own any proper digital camera (yet, i just hope HS10 doesn’t take more than a month to arrive >_>) so, all i can say about cameras is from the gathered knowledge from the vast space that is internet… a recommendation i can give, is to ask in imaging and photography forums ... a previous owner of such camera might provide better and more complete feedback about it ;)
A fun fact: For a given image, some people might consider it awesome while others rubbish… all depends to whom you ask to…
This is quite an issue with HS10 smudginess and sharpness variations - Checks for lots of samples and bare in mind that some are PP
For a family camera HS10 looks quite good, also proving a vector for learning more advanced photography technics :)
5:02 pm - Saturday, June 19, 2010
It’s hard to tell if HS10 will suffice… but considering 4x6 prints, it may do it ...
The best sample i can give you is this:
Please note the noise and lack of sharpness on some of those…
On some, the JPEG smudginess is evident, shotting with RAW would solve it…
On others a bit of PP would made them better looking…
Also, motion blur is noticeable on some…
Overall, i find it an impressive result for the kind of ISOs and conditions… specially considering that it was taken from a camera at such distance (wide shot on first photo)
Since you talk about flames, i suppose you’re shotting something like a rock concert, in those, motion of the subjects is usually greater…
If an HS10 was taken for such event, i would take all RAWs, and spend some time PPing… also, DCRaw application supports HS10, allowing RAW conversion without distortion correction…
But if it was me, i would avoid taking such unpredictable camera to an event… of course, if DSLRs are out of equation, it would become quite troublesome to decide what would be best…
A little funny fact: m43 cameras are technically not DSLR, as they lack a mirror! Same goes for NX10 and the new Sony NEX cameras… (they are also smaller than your average DSLR)
Considering that a m43 like GH1 is VERY similar in looks to HS10, i don’t know how the venue would filter those ;)
If GF1 with 20mm lens fits the bill (it’s a rangefinder looking camera) it may be a good alternative - if you are on the stage that is, focal length is fixed, being a limitation, but is is bundled with 14-45mm lens for a lower price, even so, the 28-90mm equivalent would made it a requirement to be near the stage, there is also the 45-200mm lens, quite nice for bigger distances - the price being the only issue… hmm… GF1 was hacked as well, allowing full 1080p 24fps 30Mbps footage!
If you’ll be away from stage… and considering the budget…. you have HS10 as a possible choice as manual zoom comes quite handy… but low light photos with moving subjects is quite a challenge for compacts…
If you don’t need the massive HS10 zoom, Canon G11 might be a better choice…
Basically your big limitation is price… as something more powerful than a compact would be better…
Considering 4x6” prints, all the following cameras might do it, they are quite different from each other… and there are more cameras that are able to do it with similar quality… (however some give better results for some given situations)
Some lens specs in 35mm equivalent:
S90: 28-105mm f/2.0 to f/4.9
G11: 28-140mm f/2.8 to f/4.5
LX3: 24-60mm f/2.0 to f/2.8
HS10: 24-720mm f/3.5 to f/5.6
FZ35: 27-486mm f/2.8 to f/4.4
G11 might be a good choice if the 140mm are enough, however at wider angles S90 is better in low light since aperture is bigger…
If you’re not aware of how aperture relates to light,
Considering a well exposed for a given exposure time at…
f/1.8 at ISO 100 it would be as well for:
f/2.0 at ISO 200
f/2.8 at ISO 400
f/4 at ISO 800
f/5.8 at ISO 1600
f/8 at ISO 3200
Also, and usually, the more zoom power you have the more issues lens have… HS10 massive 30x lens are a bit soft, but have chromatic aberration well controlled, the RAW data reveals some massive distortion…. but given the specs, results are quite good, but not on the level of G11 or S90 sharpness…
So… choose wisely for your needs ... as you are the best person to evaluate that ;)
PS: i’ve posted my flickr profile link on link of the comment… from there you can go to my DA account and obtain means of contact me by email if need further help…
6:17 pm - Saturday, June 19, 2010
4x6 is usually all i get printed
I’m pretty blind to noticing noise in photos.
No, its not a rock concert at all. The band sometimes has flames as part of their tour theme.
Their more like a pop rock group.
There is one member who moves around more than the other two.
But the other two seem to stand still as they play guitar.
This might sound stupid, but what is a PP?
I’m row 37, so i am aways away from the stage.
8:00 pm - Saturday, June 19, 2010
Ze Barnabe,a faixa de abertura da HS10 de F2.8 a F5.6 e nao como Voce colocou acima!!
Somente para ajudar.
8:58 pm - Saturday, June 19, 2010
You are correct… HS10 has f/2.8 at wide angle
PP is post processing… is the action of treat the images after they are taken…
Several stuff can be made in PP if you’re using RAW images, you can apply custom noise reduction algorithms for example… stuff like distortion correction, cromatic aberration correction is done in JPEG images, but not in RAW data…
If you get the oportunity, i suggest you try the camera in store… both for G11 and HS10… if the zoom range of G11 is enough and you don’t care much about video features, G11 might be a better choice…
4x6” prints are quite small, so noise or lack of sharpness are kinda filtered by printing process…
Good luck ^__^
1:26 pm - Sunday, June 20, 2010
Try to visit this site and u gonna find out how to perform the Hs10 camera, they test the full function, and it’s up to you to decide if you want or not…
7:35 am - Wednesday, June 23, 2010
besides the zoom..how do you guys compare the hs10 vs G11??
6:56 pm - Wednesday, June 23, 2010
aayush - the HS10 sensor is much smaller than the G11 (or the S90, which has the same sensor in it as the G11). It can’t compete with the G11 for overall resolution and noise. The G11 is still a heavy camera, albeit much more compact. If you are going to be shooting landscapes or for larger enlargements beyond A3, get the G11. Or S90. Or Lumix LX3. A lot of this depends on the size of prints you expect to be doing (if at all) and how much you pixel peep. The HS10 is a brilliant compromise - but if you are into one specific type of photography more than any other I would go for the camera that suits your chosen field. Check my flicker page for comparisons (as previous post).
9:16 pm - Wednesday, June 23, 2010
For about some months I have been checking photographyblog to learn about Fuji HS10 and I got one yesterday. I got it for Rs. 23,000 (~US$ 470) in India.
I have taken more than 200 shots and the landscapes are quite good. Even the moving objects are fair in the shot. I am amazed by the low-light images, even in night. At aperture priority, it does not even appears that it is dark out there!
One major concern is that it does not show the battery meter and my Sony 2500 and Eneloops 2000 die fast. May be because I am experimenting too much with it, but also because the camera really sucks good amount of juice. I later turned the auto-focus off (on single shoot) and it helped a bit. I am hopeful and apprehensive also if the battery meter can show up after a firmware upgrade!
Without comparing it with high-end DSLRs, it is a real value for money. It can beat some entry level DSLRs, if put in right hands! I am enjoying it particularly because, it has a lot of features. It does take some time to process and store images in advanced modes but almost the same or more time is taken even if the processing is done in computers. So, I don’t see this as a disadvantage, however, it does make things roll slower. Remember, you will not be bored of HS10.
5:54 am - Thursday, June 24, 2010
If you don’t have one, get a good charger, those super-fast cheap chargers do no good… if you want one cheap, prefer a slow one.
There are several types of chargers, the cheapest are the ones with no control over the charge and many don’t even control charge time, depending on the type of battery, it may take more to charge it. Considering a 200mA (10% of capacity value) charge for a 2000mAh battery for 13 to 15 hours… a lot of time yes… but your batteries will thank you…
If you have a multimeter or a voltmeter, check for bad cells… specially if you overcharged them…
Eneloops 2000 are not the best in capacity, but they hold their charge in shelf… i suggest you use the sony’s and leave the Eneloops as backup…
HS10 is a very nice package and indeed the sluggishness and overall image softness (not that bad as some people say, and it is on it’s worse at wide angle) are perhaps the major drawbacks…
After a lot (and i mean a LOT) of thinking, i’ll go for a GH1 as it is a powerful camera (and expensive :< ), even if it has a less versatile zoom…
9:42 am - Thursday, June 24, 2010
My HS10 is killing the new Sony 2500 in about an hour with merely 60 shots. I have turned the LCD and Autofocus off. Is it because the batteries are new or what? I have a GP 160 mA slow charger. Don’t know if to upgrade the charger or battery or both?
9:51 am - Thursday, June 24, 2010
That is a very good charger…. but also a very slow one…. theoretically it takes almost 24h to fully charge the sony batteries
Eneloops take around 18h to be charged at 160mA…
If when charging they start to get warm, they are starting to overcharge, at 160mA rate is not very dangerous, but caution is advised (after 24h you may forget that you put the batteries or the charger), remove them when that happens…
If you use a good faster charger, they may get a little warm, but never hot, some smart chargers have temperature control, charged peak detection, overcharge protection and tickle charge… those are usually good and charge your batteries fast and safely but are quite expensive as well…
Also, remove batteries from charger when done, do not remove the charger from the wall and leave the batteries inside…
With new batteries in the first 3-4 charges they have less charge ... also, NiMh batteries are less prone to the so called memory effect, but don’t push your luck… fully charge them after they get empty once a month to prolong their life…
Hope it helps :) ... some batteries like to be left charged others empty… i don’t remember quite well which ones prefer so, but i think NiMh prefer to be left charged, and NiCd discharged.
A slow charger can charge both NiCd and NiMh batteries, but i would select one that says it can charge the batteries type i have before trying my luck…
10:15 am - Thursday, June 24, 2010
This one is, definitively according to many reviews, the best one to get: Technoline BL-700. It will charge at three different rates, 4 AA or 4 AAA, refresh (discharge and charge cycle) and remain on a controlled trickle charge with a set of batteries so they are always topped up out of the charger.
Bear in mind that you need to cycle new re-chargeable batteries at least 5 times before they reach optimum performance.
10:32 am - Thursday, June 24, 2010
Cant wait to get it in the mail! Looks like just what iv been looking for and more ;)
The features are very exciting, Ill let you know how I go ;)
12:25 pm - Thursday, June 24, 2010
guys i am now looking at the sample images of the finepix s2500HD and since photography blog has used same scenes for sample images of HS10 we can make better comparison.. and i found the IQ in S2500HD better than HS10..
what do u say??
aayush. As many have said on this post - this is a compromise camera. The s2500D doesn’t have a 30x zoom. Write down a list of two columns. In one put the essential features you have to have on your next camera. In the other, the ones that you are not so bothered about, but would be nice to have. Then go shopping. Buy a camera and use it for a while, learn it well. Because at the end of the day, you are the one who has to like it, not everyone else here. Good shooting!
12:33 pm - Thursday, June 24, 2010
Looking at the portrait shot they have in image quality S2500HD is a bit sharper, however, JPEG engine also seems to over-sharpening and over-saturate a bit… not a bad thing, since some users prefer it that way…
Another good point is ISO behavior… HS10 at 3200 resolves a similar detail that S2500HD does at 800
2:27 pm - Thursday, June 24, 2010
I have had the HS10 for three weeks and broadly am very satisfied with it. The only thing that I have found a trifle difficult in action is the use in macro situations. I have taken many flower and insect pictures and often these need to be taken rapidly. The position of the zoom appears to be a bit critical in getting a positive focus lock. My strategy now is to zoom out wide and try to frame after focus lock with AF tracking on. It works most of the time. Has anyone got a better strategy for shots taken from say 30cm?
12:30 am - Saturday, June 26, 2010
I have owned a Panasonic FZ7,then a FZ18,then a FZ28,which were great cameras,producing good,sharp photos,but Fuji cameras,and I have owned a S620,and a S7000,did produce colourful,vibrant pictures,and the new HS10 is a quantum leap in “bridge” cameras,offering far more than comparable DSLRs,and the prints ARE as good as my Nikon D40,at least at A4,and who prints bigger?
That zoom is terrific,and there’s nothing from Nikon or Canon to touch it,which obviously doesn’t suit the “name” snobs out there.
I couldn’t care less about “Raw” processing,as Fuji jpegs are plenty good enough,in my view,and as most people(not me)only view their efforts on screen anyway,why make such a big deal out any percieved problems with Raw conversion software,as most people couldn’t spot the difference anyway,and the files are too big !
Overall this is a great all-round camera,and Fuji should be congratulated!!!
8:36 pm - Saturday, June 26, 2010
I tried to find out if the HS10 could be fired remotely via USB by taking apart a USB cable and stripping the leads. The leads are red (Voltage), White (Data+), green (Data-) and black (Ground).
If the camera has a remote switch capability via USB, I reasoned that touching the right wires together would trigger it.
Alas, I tried all the combinations without success.
9:10 pm - Monday, June 28, 2010
@Rudy Hmmm… micro usb usually has 5 connections instead of the standard 4, in previous fujifilm cameras the unused connection was used in remote switch… however - has you experienced yourself - HS10 doesn’t possess any electronic shutter release…
It is actually dangerous (for the camera) to short stuff blindly on the USB port…
It’s a shame that such long zoom doesn’t have a way of trigger the shutter remotely… but fear not…
You have 2 options (than can/should be applied at the same time)...
a) tripod + camera timer - simple and efective… also remember to use some sort of stabilization if it windy out there…
b) tripod + an air belt piston actuated around camera shutter button - a little clumsy, but this allows you to control even half-press…. i don’t know the exact name of this belt… but is something like a simple strap that is filled with air from a piston shaped like a syringe that you pump, pressing the shutter button… with some ingenuity you can even make one yourself (by using some stuff from medical cabinet ;p )
12:42 am - Tuesday, June 29, 2010
Fuji has no remote release for the HS10. I made an adapter out of 2 ea 3.5 inch shelf brackets for $4.57. With it, I can use a standard cable release. Can I upload a photo?
9:00 pm - Sunday, July 4, 2010
@Rudy… i would love to see a photo of that working xD
9:27 am - Monday, July 5, 2010
How can I post a photo of the remote release adapter I put together?
2:36 pm - Monday, July 5, 2010
I’m no editor… but i think you can use Flickr or Picasa url without any issue :)
Ex (both from my accounts):
There are lots of others image sharing websites…
2:48 pm - Monday, July 5, 2010
Home zebarnbe, I didn’t think of that.
3:08 pm - Monday, July 5, 2010
That’s a way of solving it… quite nice realization, i hope it doesn’t damage the camara…
3:13 pm - Monday, July 5, 2010
Well, I recovered from my battery blues by conditioning them 3 times. Now, I want to ask if anyone can help with creating decent bokeh with HS10? In macro mode, most of the time it comes out fine but not always. When I switch to SR Auto mode, the bokeh is better but sometimes it happens and other times it just doesn’t work.
Also, how to change aperture in Manual Mode (M)? In manual mode, the command dial controls the shutter speed but how do I control the aperture? Can’t I control both the aperture and the shutter speed in some mode?
3:34 pm - Monday, July 5, 2010
I don’t own a HS10 (i got a GH1 just a few days ago)
Super macro mode as close as possible should give you quite some bokeh, specially for close subjects and distant backgrounds…
In macro mode, search what is the point of the focal length where your subject get’s more magnification (it should be something around 130mm or so with the HS10), at that point bokeh should be nicer than most of other focal lengths…
That aside, you should always go for the biggest aperture of the focal length… in P mode you usually balance shutter speed and aperture to expose the same, go for the lower f-number (biggest aperture)... you can always use A mode in a similar fashion…
In M mode you control everything manually, ISO, aperture and exposure time, cameras (at least my 35mm SLR and my GH1 EVIL cameras) tip you if you’re over or under exposing ;)
Having your background far away and your subject as close as possible with the widest aperture is the best way to give the nicest bokeh… super macro does that at the same time, but subject as to be small since you’ll be focusing so close…
The bigger the focal length (and HS10 has lots of it ;) ) the blurry the background gets, however you can’t always ensure that focus distance at a given focal length is the best for blur the background as you wish… so try several… focal lengths at several focal points till you know your camera good enough to know what to do…
HS10 and all other compacts have small sensors (well, usually), these prevents one from achieving the bokeh of a DSLR sensor… but you have some room to play, specially if your camera has all the manual controls you can have :)
3:55 pm - Monday, July 5, 2010
In order to make sure the plunger on my DIY remote adapter would not scar the shutter button, I installed a rubber pad:
Here’s the adapter again:
4:49 pm - Monday, July 5, 2010
Ei Rudy,precisa agora fabricar em escala,patentear e vender,kkkkkkkkkkk…..
Serei um cliente.
5:10 pm - Monday, July 5, 2010
I got a new one for $400. It’s awesome esp. with the 30X zoom. Even more enjoyable then my Kx twin lenses set! It outruns my friends G10 leaving him speechless esp. for such a price. If its brand is Canon, Nikon or Sony, he would have rushed for one as he commented. Poor souls!
1:53 pm - Wednesday, July 7, 2010
I don’t know what camera “Fuji Shooter” has been using!
The picture quality is NOT awful,it’s very good,as good as my previous FZ28,and comparable to my 6 mp d40,at lower ISOs anyway.
It’s not as quick admittedly,but it makes up for it with it’s great lens,portability,and a great rear screen.
At my age(68),I am getting past lugging DSLRs and 2 or 3 lenses about.
My Lumix FZ28 was a great little camera,but a bit small,and I never felt like a “proper” photographer when I used it.Much lighter than my Nikon kit,but it’s still well built,and nice to hold,and I think the HS10 is a great compromise.
The 3” rear screen is a boon,as peering through eyepieces is a nuisance. In my experience Fuji have never made a bad camera,having owned a S602 zoom,a S7000 zoom,and,recently,a Fuji S9600,(a great camera,but let down by the 2” rear screen)all of which were state of the art at the time I bought them,and all produced great prints.
Who uses Raw,or shoots at speeds of 1600 or 3200?
The simple answer is never,for most amateurs,who either use the flash inside,or only use the camera in good light.
The HS10 is a modern marvel,and I can’t believe sum of the griping reviews!
It’s better than similar offerings from Canon or Nikon,and you can produce some great A4 or A3 prints with it,so it’ll do me!
6:16 pm - Wednesday, July 7, 2010
The stuff I read from many people on many sites in relation to photography is often pure junk as in whinning etc.(BS) I say this as a retired professional photographer who has worked with heads of state, in war zones, with the UN in both still and broadcast video. This camera is one excellent piece of equipement when used appropriately and for the right purpose. It is not a DSLR and therefore likely won’t behave and perform like one. I purchased one for a specific reason and my only beef has been the conversion capability from Fuji’s new raw format to tiff or dng as I don’t use jpg. As I do not work any specific camera company this is my unbiased opinion. As to panorama you won’t beat the quality when you shoot individual raw images on the proper plane and with the correct overlap and stitch them in photoshop. There are reasons why professional photography is expensive and of higher quality than amatuer.
8:09 pm - Thursday, July 8, 2010
I have been a pro for 13 years and into photography for 30 years plus. I have stuck with film all thius time..but thought I would give digi imaging a chance and purchased the hs10 simply because I shoot fujifilm. Well after all the ranting and rathing about digi and this particular camera ’ I must say if this is the best it can get..taking of course the mk3 canon which I have usede and the fuji s5…then I am glad I have stuck with film’ ?????
6:00 pm - Saturday, July 10, 2010
I am planning to pickup HS10. You mentioned that you were able to get this for INR23000. Can you let me know from where and what was the bundled offer that you got with this camera at the price that you paid?
2:28 pm - Monday, July 12, 2010
I plan to purchase this camera later next week.
I’m really excited about it.
I had to sacrifice getting a laptop to get this, so it better be worth it.
1:37 am - Tuesday, July 13, 2010
Yes, I bought HS10 some weeks ago from Madurai. You can visit Fuji India website and get the phone number of the Fuji dealer SB photos (the first dealer with a number like 09600…). This man is Mr Dinesh who promotes Fuji in whole TN. I got a 4GB Kingston SDHC card, USB cable, 4 Panasonic alkalines and 4 Sony 2500 NiMH rechargeable with my camera.
I believe you can bargain further if you are based in some metros.
6:19 pm - Tuesday, July 13, 2010
Rest assured about the low light performance. It does compete with an easy DSLR say Nikon D 2000 or something like that. You can increase ISO or shoot with a wider aperture or with a slow shutter speed.
Choose any of the options to maximize low light performance. It will definitely surprise you. Pro-low light mode is good if you want to retain the characteristics of the scene. I don’t see any challenge for you to shoot against a black background. Do you buy cameras for single occasions? Even if it is so, it’s fine. The lens in its den is about an inch from the body. Don’t worry, the lens will not annoy you, it is one of the things still under sufficient control.
Laptop or Iphone! HS10 is worth it!
6:49 pm - Tuesday, July 13, 2010
I plan to use this camera at a zoo trip in the middle of September. I like to take daily pix.
Mostly my kitten, or the squirrels in the backyard.
We also have hummingbirds and the occasional deer during the winter. But i basically film everything that my eye’s like.
6:55 pm - Tuesday, July 13, 2010
7:20 pm - Tuesday, July 13, 2010
Hi everybody. I have a Canon SX 20 IS since last December, I get it mainly because it has hot shoe for external flash and is compatible with TTL photography, and I do a LOT of indoor photography with a dedicated unit, most bounced. Now, certanly Fuji HS10 has a lot of more function: more zoom with manual control, RAW, burst of 10 shots possibility. But I ask, flash photography must be done manually? Instructions said NO TTL. Advice will be wellcomed. Thanks.
9:27 pm - Thursday, July 22, 2010
Can someone tell me if this camera can be fitted with a ring flash and which one?
12:17 pm - Friday, July 23, 2010
Hi everybody. I have a Canon SX 20 IS ...But I ask, [Fuji HS10] flash photography must be done manually? Instructions said NO TTL.
YEP! You’ve discovered one of the few shortfalls of the HS10. My results with the pop-up flash—compared with my 6 year old Fuji S5000—have been extremely disappointing. I’m now shopping for a non-TTL flash for the HS10. Anyone have any ‘affordable’ recommendations?
4:09 pm - Friday, July 23, 2010
I previosly wrote:
My results with the pop-up flash —compared with my 6 year old Fuji S5000— have been extremely disappointing. I’m now shopping for a non-TTL flash for the HS10. Anyone have any ‘affordable’ recommendations?
I should also have noted that I tried Canon’s SX10 IS with both pop-up and with a very expensive TTL flash. Results with my old Fuji S5000 were vastly superior. As I recall, results with the pop-up on the HS10 were better than either flash with the SX10. I seldom do portraits but often shoot civic events in large, poorly lit rooms.
4:32 pm - Friday, July 23, 2010
This comes to my mind:
5:22 pm - Friday, July 23, 2010
Hi Delmar, best regards. For my Canon SX20 I get the Digital Concepts 952AF/CAN, GN 42@85 ISO 100 for TRUE, work fine in TTL. Since the Nikon units does not work TTL with the HS10, I suggest you the Vivitar 285 HV, is automatic with a removable external sensor, GN 36 ISO 100, 4 f stop possibilitys, bounced but not swivell, is about US$85,oo. Pop up flashes always let ugly shadows and are underpowered. I will kept the SX 20 for now.
5:44 pm - Friday, July 23, 2010
B ARRANQUILLERO wrote:
I suggest you the Vivitar 285 HV, is automatic with a removable external sensor, GN 36 ISO 100, 4 f stop possibilitys, bounced but not swivell, is about US$85,oo. Pop up flashes always let ugly shadows and are underpowered. I will kept the SX 20 for now.
WOW! Thanks for your prompt response. I’ve researched the Vivitar 285hv and it looks like just what’s needed. A bit weighty but the $81.95 price is right. Any other suggestions from anyone else before I order?
By the way, Fuji’s HS10 has often been compared to Canon’s SX10 or SX20. It seems likely that Canons’ SX1 is more directely competitive because of the (faster) BSL CMOS sensor, similar to HS10.
7:39 pm - Friday, July 23, 2010
Quazi Ahmed Hussain
DSLR is DSLR and Point & Shoot is Point & Shoot.
For casual shooters, this can be a good camera. I used and still use a P&S zoom camera. The differences are clear. Always rely on my DSLRs for serious shooting missions. For casual shooting, P&S is a good choice.
12:04 pm - Monday, July 26, 2010
Fuji Finepix HS10 excelent bridge camera & value for money , i am very satisfied , thanks HS10 !
4:03 pm - Wednesday, August 4, 2010
I just bought HS10 and from my amateur point of view this is an excelent camera for learning and very good bridge to professional photography,but as many people wrote it’s up to personal opinion which camera is best,for me this is the one.Best regards
12:03 am - Thursday, August 5, 2010
I’m still quite amused by this camera features, only two draw back so far. One is the questionable resolution at these size sensors, expect nothing better (details wise) than any other 1/2.3 CCD sensor, yet BSI-CMOS handling light situation is by far superior tan any other CCD, excellent. The next one is the manual focus, only god know how much I which they had a firmware upgrade that will make the manual focus more notch precise. Manual focus is extremely slippery, and it is object dependent-auto focus assisted. The point is that there is no way you can set your manual focus to infinite or to an specific metered distance. If you move your framing, your manual focus will readjust to the next closes object to the center of your camera. Kind of have a life of his own. God-Japanese-FujiGeek help us with a firmware adjust to the manual focus, please. Otherwise guys I highly recommend this camera for newly, enthusiast, and professionals. Very light in weight, very heavy in features on its class.
1:01 am - Monday, August 23, 2010
All these comments about the HS10 are no doubt very interesting,but a lot of them could be resolved by the writer of the comment simply trying the camera out at their local photo shop.
Also,if you seldom take lots of photos in poor light,without use of the flash,why is noise over 800 asa such an issue?
In normal use it’s just not an issue,if I’m out in the countryside,on holidays,etc.,I have seen very little,or no obvious evidence of noise in my pictures,up to A4,with some cropping,but if noise causes you sleepless nights,DON’T buy a camera with a small sensor,whether it’s a Canon,Nikon,Fuji,or any maker,stick with the bigger sensor of a DSLR,and put up with the weight of it,plus all the lenses you’d need to have the same flexibility of a superzoom.
This why got rid of my Nikon DSLR,as I wasn’t using it,as I just couldn’t be bothered lugging it about!
I wonder how many of these commentators actually PRINT anything,or are they just content to look at them on their computers,like most of the people who have digital cameras?
10:55 am - Monday, August 23, 2010
I have the HS10 for almost 2 months now. I have been using digital cameras since 1998 and this camera is the best compact/bridge/ultra zoom camera I ever used.
Pros : fantastic zoom*good stabilizer*full HD movies*zooming and sound recording at the same time is available*very good pictures at low light conditions*mode dial is seen on the monitor also*monitor turns off while using the electronic view finder*recording movies with one push of a button. No need to change modes.
Cons : heavier than most compact/bridge cameras*batteries energy hungry*movement of the zoom is “sticky” and it disturbs while shooting videos*although Fuji claims it is a fixed lens and no worries about dust entering
the camera it happened to me. After a long fight against Fuji labs in Israel they replaced it with a new camera.
4:55 pm - Monday, August 23, 2010
doug sinnott Well Said!
5:04 pm - Monday, August 23, 2010
I read somewhere that a potential HS10 user only wants to produce 6x4 prints from his camera!
What a waste of good technology!
Years ago I used to produce good 10x8s from my old 3MP Fuji S602 zoom, and a Canon A70 without any problems,so just needing 6x4s from the HS10 seems like using a Rolls-Royce to go to the supermarket!
Some people seem to spend more time reading reviews,than actually taking photographs!
Also battery life on the HS10 is very good,particularly with a good set of rechargeables!
8:44 pm - Monday, August 23, 2010
While i understand what you’re saying, your definition of good is 150ppi on paper… usually photos are printed at 300ppi or 600ppi (even more if were talking about really good paper and printer)
So… 3MP do not fill a 10x8 at 300ppi, however, if those 3MP are ‘good’, at 150ppi it should look nice for most uses…
The complain of most people regarding HS10 quality is that those 10MP are not ‘good’ ... however, putting it that way it sounds like it’s bad…
It’s not that bad as some people say, and here i agree with you, and with good light conditions (don’t go over ISO400) and a bit past the middle of zoom range (worst case scenario is at wide angle), HS10 can go up to 8x12 (around A4 size) and still look good enough…
What that means? well ... the 10MP of HS10 don’t have the usual resolution of ‘modern’ 10MP sensors (some would say that HS10 resolution is around 6MP when comparing with ‘modern’ cameras), but has enough resolution to do a decent job…
True to be said, main issue is perhaps that people expect the quality of a DSLR out of a compact sensor with 30x zoom lens…
In case you’re wondering i own a GH1 and find HS10 quite impressive… (and i would love to have some 100-300 lens to match HS10 zoom xD)
11:13 pm - Monday, August 23, 2010
zebarnabe said, “True to be said, main issue is perhaps that people expect the quality of a DSLR out of a compact sensor with 30x zoom lens…”
and why shouldn’t they when Fuji announced the HS10 like this….
Valhalla, NY, February 02, 2010 – FUJIFILM North America Corporation today announced its most impressive line of high speed, high performance D-SLR-styled digital cameras with the introduction of the Fujifilm FinePix HS10. Serious photographers seeking the versatility and performance of a D-SLR system without the bulk or expense now have the perfect solution in the shape of the new Fujifilm FinePix HS10.
I bought mine on 30 April in Hong Kong (before reviews were done) and would have sent it back for a refund as soon as I saw the JPEG image quality, but that wasn’t possible. I thought it was going to be everything I wanted and more. I’m pretty much over the disappointment now and enjoy it as a fun, versatile device which satisfies most of my requirements.
7:44 am - Tuesday, August 24, 2010
Fuji bridges sometimes take better pictures than a regular dslr and i have a proof of that. When i saw my son christmas photo taken by a Dslr from Canon and a photo taken by a fuji bridge (I don’t remember the model) I don´t believe, the quality of image from the Fuji Photo was large superior than the quality of the canon dslr.
1:12 am - Friday, August 27, 2010
With the HS10 at full zoom and set to night time without tripod, hand held and leaning on a wall I shot some amazing moon photos which equal, if not better than some taken with a Fuji S3 attached to an astronomy telescope.
12:10 pm - Friday, August 27, 2010
I bought the HS10 in an effort to better my ageing Panasonic FZ50 but i think i will stick with FZ50. Ok HS10 does do 24 - 720mm against FZ50 35 - 420?mm but at full zoom there is a lack of detail with HS10. Better to display the FZ50 and zoom in on screen. HS10 is only just 10mp more like an 8mp. I accept the HS10 does 10 frames per sec but only for a sec - who wants 10 photos the same, better the FZ50 2 or 3 fps but over a 2 or 3 sec burst. The biggest drawback is the HS10 is so very slow, in any mode take a photo then wait like what seems seconds before you can shoot again. Again as compared with the FZ50 the pictures on the HS10 lack basic colour some i have taken look almost black and white adjusting the colour does not really cut it either. Whilst the HS10 does have manual focus the EVF viewfinder is so poor to make the manual focus not worth having because u cannot see detail. Did Fuji not notice any of this before putting camera on market. OK - it has some clever features but how often would u use them. Better to have made a decent basic camera first. This is not a camera i would recommend. To better the FZ50 thought about the FZ100 but no twist barrel zoom, or twist barrel manual focus. If Panasonic brought out a new FZ50 as is but with 24 - 720 lens then they would have a real winner. I previously bought a Fuji S200EXR which was also dissapointing and my experiences with the HS10 mean i will probably never opt for Fuji in the future - shame since my 1st digicam was a little fuji S5000 3.2mp which was magic.
4:39 pm - Saturday, August 28, 2010
Yep, the major pitfall of HS10 is speed, the second is the less than perfect sharpness of lens - if you think full tele is bad, don’t look at full wide, specially on the corners.
Another quite painful issue is the JPEG mushiness… shot in RAW and be amazed with the difference (and be amazed to how slow a camera can be xD ).... specially if there was lots of detail on the image (grass, foliage, etc)... i suggest dcraw to extract the image from raw data (it’s free), it will not correct distortion, but will ensure the best sharpness possible…
Manual focus is only usable on studio or tripod’ed
conditions ... :(
That aside ISO behavior is quite nice, but colors come a little muted…
S200EXR beats FZ50 (and HS10) in dynamic range… but lacks some resolution in comparison (EXR mode goes a 6MP, enough for most of people)...
In HS10 defense, all other 24x-30x bridge cameras have a blurriness on the image :(
So, had FZ50 some 24-720mm lens and results would be similar…
Also ... if i’m not mistaken, you can set HS10 burst rate to 10, 7, 5 and 3fps… only 7 photos, but 7 photos at 3fps is a little more than 2 secs…
In my opinion what HS10 lacks it’s ‘brains’... Panasonic has some very fast and efficient image processor (and FZ100 aside, does an excellent job with JPEGs).
If you seek quality try G11, S90/95 or LX5…
If size is not that important (or you want zoom range without killing your wallet and image quality) try Pentax K-x, 700€ for a the dual kit lens that go from 27mm to 450mm (you have to change - and carry - lens though)
Bottom line…. there is not perfect camera, but if one can accept the pitfalls of one, should stick to it till finds something better…
If you like FZ50 image quality and handling stick to it till something that pleases you comes out ...
10:18 pm - Saturday, August 28, 2010
i dunno, I have the Fuji S200 EXR and I still think it’s better than this HS10.
1:45 am - Tuesday, August 31, 2010
Every day that I take photos with my HS10, I thank myself for buying it on the day it became available.
Quite a few have commented here on the lack of sharpness and poor jpeg quality at full zoom. Here’s a photo I took at full zoom that shows the quality of the HS10 under field conditions:
7:29 pm - Tuesday, August 31, 2010
Don’t take me wrong, it’s a nice shot after all, but i would love to see it at 5MP ... at 1024x768 it’s really nice for webview, but not exactly perfect for printing…
The main issue with people saying it lacks sharpness is related with the comparison made against another 10MP camera… for me HS10 looks good at 5-6MP, that is more than enough for most people.
I would say that HS10 is sharper at full tele than at full wide… specially on the corners… the lens have a massive distortion that is corrected in-camera jpegs. Shot full wide in RAW+JPEG and convert to RAW to jpeg with DCRaw, compare the jpeg from camera, it can be useful to have that fisheye effect sometimes ;)
JPEG mushiness only occurs sometimes, when there is a given level of detail that surpasses a certain threshold making the camera apply some weired algorithm (check the fur or foliage on the photos and see if there is some smear on them)... this is also more prone to happen at DR200% and DR400% - avoid their use as post-processing achieves pretty much the same result… S200EXR had some real hardware to extend dynamic range on the sensor, HS10 does not, it just applies some custom curves.
Obviously for those situations where smear it is expected to occur one can change to RAW (shame that it is so well hidden on the menus)...
If you like the sharpness you obtain and don’t mind the slow write speed, then HS10 is the perfect camera for you… no need to lug around some heavy DSLR with its lens…
9:40 am - Wednesday, September 1, 2010
There is a new firmware Version 3 update available as from the end of August for your HS10.
My camera had been returned for a minor problem,but has returned with Version 3 installed!!
It has definitely improved an already great camera,particularly focussing at the long end of the zoom,and it seems a very worthwhile update.
This Firmware update is not on Fuji’s website yet,so you will have to contact Fuji UK,and they will arrange the update for you.
The more you use the HS10,the more you realise you realise why the camera won the award “Best Superzoom of 2010”!
10:43 pm - Sunday, September 5, 2010
Are you sure about this? I just called the Fuji service centre in Germany (where I am right now), and they are unaware of any new firmware. 1.02 is all they know about. What you are saying is that the camera displays 1.03 when you follow the test procedure ?? Did they tell you the list of improvement associated with the update? Can you call them and ask?
9:51 am - Monday, September 6, 2010
I have just contacted the repair unit at Fuji UK and they are saying that the most recent version is 1.02 and that v3.0 would be a very long way away if indeed if ever happened.
1.01, 1.02, you get the length of the series there would be before v3.0.
So I’m not sure where that leaves us. Perhaps a camera screenshot would be useful to put the case to them?
10:00 am - Monday, September 6, 2010
REf Fuji UK saying “Firmware 3 update” currently being unavailable,all I know is I had Firmware 3 installed when it was returned from their workshop,plus a docket confirming this.
It’s all a mystery to me,especially as I now have the “early warning” low battery symbol coming on yet again!
When I first got my HS10,I had this problem,despite installing the “Version 2” firmware from the Fuji site,so I returned it to Fuji.
This was fixed after 2 weeks,and I then had problems getting the “Advanced” functions to work correctly,particularly the “Multi-frame Capture” mode.
This had worked briefly when I got the camera,so Fuji asked me to send the camera back to them again.
It was returned,as I have said with Version 3 firmware installed.
Now,everything works great,as this IS a great camera,but the now the battery symbol keeps coming on,10 minutes after putting a fresh set of fully charged AAs in it!
Exactly as it did when I first got my HS10.
It’s very misleading,as it doesn’t mean the batteries are running out,as it still takes photos for some time afterwards.
I have e-mailed Fuji again,as I’m NOT happy,but I still like the HS10,perhaps I might get an exchange for a new one!
3:21 pm - Monday, September 6, 2010
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