Panasonic Lumix DMC-TZ60
Canon PowerShot SX510 HS
Panasonic Lumix DMC-TZ40
Nikon Coolpix P600
Sony Cyber-shot DSC-HX50V
Panasonic Lumix DMC-FT25 Review
Olympus SP-100EE Review
Samsung NX3000 Review
Olympus Tough TG-3 Review
Fujifilm FinePix XP70 Review
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The TZ8 does indeed use QuickTime Motion JPEG, while the TZ10 allows you to choose beyween AVCHD Lite and Motion JPEG.
Mixed opinions about the TZ7 there, interesting. The new cameras include manual exposure control but not manual focus. Anonymous #3, we feel your pain, shooting concerts is incredibly hard without laying down some serious cash. Anonymous #5, battery life is something we’ll be testing closely—GPS is notoriously power-hungry so Panasonic will have had to pay close attention to battery life.
6:22 am - Tuesday, March 2, 2010
I took one of the example pics and resized it to 6MP (3000x2250 px) and back to 12MP (4000x3000 px). There was virtually no difference to spot!
The 6MP image looked even a little bit better.
The DMC-T8 may be a nice camera, but the 12MP are useless. Please Panasonic, reduce the pixel count of it to 5-6MP. It makes the camera faster, the files smaller and the sensor more sensitive to light.
And to Photographyblog: It would be nice if you pointed out this megapixel-nonsense.
3:03 pm - Tuesday, March 2, 2010
we want review of panasonic TZ10
8:53 pm - Wednesday, March 3, 2010
Why does you review of the TZ8 have links at the end to buy a TZ6? There is an £80 price difference.
3:47 pm - Thursday, March 4, 2010
This is an excellent camera. Not just an excellent compact or point and shoot but an excellent camera period. While not a complete replacement for an dSLR, the FZ8 is pretty darn close. Given the current price in the low $200s, it is one of the best values in digital camera available.
7:51 am - Friday, March 5, 2010
So then, everything been said, Is this worth paying £40 more for instead of a TZ7? I don’t know what to choose, the video doesn’t bother me, i have a camcorder, but the low light problem on the TZ7 does,.
Has this been improved over the TZ7?
Amazon are doing the TZ8 for £259.99, pre release, Do you think price will go up when it is officially released?
12:22 pm - Friday, March 5, 2010
I have both the TZ10 and TZ8 on pre prder from a cataloge,with discounts I have the TZ10 will be £304 and TZ8 £212.To be honest Im not fussed about the GPS on the TZ10 and Im not shore if the video formats is enough to warrent the extra cost of the TZ10.Until these were announced I was going to get the TZ7 but was very put of by the mode dial which I knew would bug me.
Any advice on which I should op for would be greatly appreciated.
10:50 am - Saturday, March 6, 2010
Thats a good price Claire, Where did you get it for that price? I also don’t care about the GPS, I am going to South Africa in October and want some close shots in the game reserve, so i want my choice to be right, good zoom, and pocketable due to the high crime rate there.
3:07 pm - Saturday, March 6, 2010
I’m looking for a replacement for my trusty (and old) Casio EX-Z750 which is on its way out. Thing is that all Casios have a great triple self-timer which I use all the time (not a burst mode - it takes 3 pics within 5 secs of each other).
This Panasonic looks great, but a read of the manual reveals no triple timer. In fact, i can’t find a triple time on any other manufacturer than Casio.
Casio never come up well on image quality and noise and so i thought this was an opportunity to go for a better make. But i need that triple timer!
3:55 pm - Friday, March 19, 2010
Just like to say that I bought a TZ8 a week ago and am really happy with the results. I’ve taken about 250 shots so far and they’ve all been spot on with excellent detail. I would highly recommend this camera after having owned a canon ixus for the last 2 years.
9:31 pm - Saturday, March 27, 2010
I needed to replace my digital compact,have read the reviews and went to a retailer determined to buy one of these. I dont need the extras on the TZ10. A very enthusuastic assistant persuaded me to buy a Canon Powershot SX200 IS instead,saying she owned one,took it everywhere and loved it.I was also shown a 210IS but it was a lot more expensive and I didnt like the look or “feel” of it. The features I was going for with the TZ8 were mostly the zoom and wide lens,and the image stabiliser.I was told the Canon was better in close up and bad light.Testing it on an old card at home it let me delete 150 images without warning (by synching the card?)Very upset.
I have 30 days to change my mind. Should I?
9:30 am - Thursday, April 8, 2010
You should be able to recover those 150 images with a program such as http://www.photo-saver.com. I have had a Lumix TZ6 for nearly a year and have been wondering about upgrading to the TZ8. The lenses on the two models are identical and I am very happy with mine, so that could be a reason for you to change your mind. I am trying to weigh up whether the new modes (Aperture priority, Shutter priority and Manual) are worth the extra money. Any suggestions anyone?
2:06 pm - Friday, April 9, 2010
I’d like to change my old olympus m with a compact camera that offers HD video for shooting videos in concerts. I was told about TZ8 but now I see its not that good. Any other alternatives?
10:39 am - Wednesday, April 28, 2010
This or Fuji F80exr? Help I am SO torn. Will be for beach honeymoon and diving.
9:35 am - Friday, May 14, 2010
Re Canon - Should I change?
Change it! Change it! Change it! I love Canon cameras and have had numerous varieties over the past 35 years - Until now. So many problems with the model prior to yours and the expense of repairs. Changed to TZ8 and have found a new love! Don’t need fancy video and GPS of TZ10 so saved money.
The panasonic lens is unbeatable.
11:48 pm - Thursday, May 20, 2010
Casio H15 or Panasonic TZ8?
7:08 pm - Sunday, May 30, 2010
Is there any limitation in the video length ?
9:24 pm - Tuesday, June 1, 2010
Same question as Jose: Casio H15 or Panasonic TZ8?
Is there much difference in imagine quality? The Casio seems to have the edge with battery life and price.
Any opinions gratefully received.
9:29 pm - Friday, June 4, 2010
Sorry, I meant ‘image’ quality, obviously…
9:57 pm - Friday, June 4, 2010
I just bought the TZ9 which is an improved version of the TZ8. Same camera but with 12.1 megapixels, larger 3 inch LCD 460k dot viewfinder and stereo microphone for HD movie recording. Superb camera for those who don’t need the bells and whistles of the TZ10. Funny that you don’t see it advertised anywhere though!
2:39 am - Tuesday, June 8, 2010
That isn’t a Panasonic lens, it’s a Leica Lens, which is far superior to anything Panasonic good come up with. Cameras with a Leica lens are going to be pretty good quality overall, providing the rest of the optics in camera are right.
12:50 pm - Tuesday, June 15, 2010
I don’t know what to get Panasonic DMCZS5K or Samsung WB600?
I just want a decent all around camera. Very user friendly. Will be taking a lot of videos of our kids.
What do you suggest? Please help!
4:03 pm - Friday, June 18, 2010
I own a Panasonic TZ-3 and still impressed with it after two years of constent in dusty conditions this digi cam has performed fantastic.
The 10X optical zoom with maximum of 60X zoom this camera to me has performed better than a pair of binoculars despite it maximun capacity of 8Mpix image recording this digi cam for does the job exceedingly well. For me to up grade to the TZ-8 would this be a total waste of cash or am I missing something. Apart from the 12Mpix images the TZ-8 captures what real difference is there between these two digicma my TZ-3 is bulky and truly feels like a camera.
6:32 pm - Saturday, July 3, 2010
I have the TZ8 and I can say that it’s a great camera. It takes amazing photos even with 16x zoom and even more. However the photos it takes at night are not as awesome as during the day, but they are still good if you compare it with other cameras.
The biggest disadvantage of the camera for me is the huge amounts of memory it needs for just a photo and videos. With an SD card of 4GB and the video switched to HD quality you cannot take video for more than 20 minutes. From the other side, photos, at least, use 5,5 MB each but this is sufferable comparing to its video.
8:36 am - Tuesday, July 20, 2010
My Ixus 90 was stolen, the camera was basic but fabs ! I was soooo set on getting another Ixus but I’m sick of reading not that perfect reviews :( and peoples comments about the image noise :((( Well, I am far from a profy user but I am not buying a camera every year ! Now I narrowed my choice to TZ7, TZ8 and some of Ixus, 130,200,210 ... Pls tell me that I should change to Lumix :D
Also is it true that they r fragile ? I remember my Ixus fell quite a few times, and nothing happened..
Thanks a bunch !
2:47 pm - Saturday, July 24, 2010
Hi all. Please help. What is the best setting on my TZ8 to take photos at rock concerts. Went to Prodigy at weekend and camera struggled on IA, tried scene set on High Dynamic and High Sensitivity but not great. Any suggestions people?
8:23 pm - Wednesday, July 28, 2010
were you using Flash? if so chances are you were to far away from the subject… despite all that stage lighting you have to project sufficient light forward to lighten the subject. Another Tip your EV exposure lightens the image in your LCD and lightens your captured image…...
9:36 pm - Wednesday, July 28, 2010
Hi Keith thanks for coming back. I tried some with flash but that seemed to make the pictures dark. Without flash it was hard to keep the focus.
Sorry to sound thick but what is EV exposure? Reading the stuff above would the intelligent ISO help.
9:58 pm - Wednesday, July 28, 2010
Been honest with you I don’t know anything about your camera my camera which I am more than happy with is the older TZ-3 about 2-3 year old. Now all cameras I belive have an EV adjustment you may need to read your manual. Found it on page 53 your manual explains in detail…..
10:29 pm - Wednesday, July 28, 2010
Dijana, (#25) What camera did you go for? I’m looking for a camera myself and I’m torn between the cameras that you’re looking at.. Both the Canon 130 and the Panasonic T8 look good with good reviews, but still not sure.
Any feedback would be good.
7:26 pm - Monday, August 23, 2010
James # 30 lol
I got TZ 10 and I’m happy :))) I’d have gone for TZ 8 too although gps is cool :) but I got a good deal for TZ 10 .. Gave up Canon cuz too many bad reviews about the image quality and I read so many.. the battery is weak though but hell Im gonna get one more :)
4:50 am - Tuesday, August 24, 2010
Hi I am loving the TZ8. Was not bothered by the GPS after seeing comments about battery. Also not bothered about fancy video stuff. The video on the TZ8 is good enough. I found the HD difficult to view on my old TZ7. Generally I think the 8 is fab. Takes great shots generally. Has tons of options but in vast amjority of situations the Intelligent Auto is pretty good. This is correct outdoors especially. Indoors I am still faffing about with different settings but have had some cracking albums for Facebook at weddings dog class etc. Taking anything at a distance with the flash on is awkward, and with flash turned off you have to have a steady hand. I am still glad I bought it tho and think it is good for the money and is still a compact to slip into pocket etc. Hope this helps
11:01 am - Tuesday, August 24, 2010
I agree with people regarding the canon reviews..
#31 / 32 just is case ????
A few website are saying that the image quality is slipping and not as sharp as it once was. With the T8 I like the fact that you can control the shutter for night photography and has more options than I’m ever going to need, but they are there just in case. And the HD movies look good.
So I think a shopping trip this weekend for a Panasonic then..
Thanks for the help..
2:20 pm - Friday, August 27, 2010
can someone out htere help me get great pics when going to concerts.
I have the DMC TZ8 great camera to use, but it took grainy concert pics, need help to get really good pics.
6:32 pm - Sunday, September 5, 2010
see my reply to post #26…same thing applies
7:36 am - Monday, September 6, 2010
Thxs Keith, sorry i never saw Gunny`s question, fingers crossed for me, what about shutter speed? what should that be on please
9:58 am - Monday, September 6, 2010
Tricky question… it all about available light and shutter speed. Your in a subdued light enviroment you have main lights facing the stage.
The image you want to take is moving so a slow shutter speed will give you a blurred image. Using your flash on the camera the chances are you’ll be too far away for any real light from your flash hitting the subject on the stage. So we need lots of light and a shutter speed slow enough to let enough light in through the lens. A slow shutter speed above 1/30th second should suffice but this really depends on the light on the stage. Fast shutter speeds are no good in low light conditions. Try altering your EV settings 2 stops at a time by doing this your allowing more lightinto your camera…too much and your image will look washed out.
11:25 am - Monday, September 6, 2010
Thxs Keith appreciate all the help you are giving me, my concerts dont start till next year now so i have time to play with the shutter speed, any advice on what to practice taking pics on to try the setting out please.
Again thxs Caz
2:24 pm - Monday, September 6, 2010
Yes we have Bonfire night coming up in November….In between time try taking photographs of street scenes at night with just the street lights for illumination….You relly have to suck it and see what you and your camera are capable of….Its good fun exploring the various settings, remember any shutter speed below 1/30th of a second may well give you camera shake and blurred images.
5:17 pm - Monday, September 6, 2010
Cheers Keith appreciate all your help and advice,the first camera was the tz1, and all i ever did for concert pics was to put it on high sensativety and i always had stunning pics but that one broke, and i am having trouble with this one, but again many thxs i do appreciate it
7:47 pm - Monday, September 6, 2010
Hiya Keith, i didnt get a hardcopy manual its all on disc, anyway i have had a look on said disk and there is nothing on htere about this ev, and i cant find anyway of altering the shutter speed.
7:25 pm - Saturday, September 11, 2010
Caz please read my message above #29.
Your manual says….
Download this link:-
Please read pages 53-66
7:57 pm - Saturday, September 11, 2010
I’ve been looking at a lot of different cameras, but the FZ8 seems to come out on top in a lot of them. No one has really commented on action shots yet, what would this one be like for capturing dogs running around, etc?
I am very interested in this camera, sadly though the test shots are mainly still life, not many portraits or animals, not every wants to capture buildings, more people, family and pets…
Very indepth review though, again with the exception of much on moving images.
9:37 am - Friday, September 24, 2010
-Am finally thinking of replacing TZZ-1 (which only wants to save to it’s internal memory and not the card)It has done 6 years of great servibce around the world in awide variety of conditions - Any suggestions on limitations of storage media capacity ......and/or whether anyone else has a camera which comes close to this quality and versatility but includes an optical zoom?
.....Otherwise am tending toward a TZ 8 (I rarely video -and would use a dedicated piece of separate equipment)
4:40 am - Monday, October 4, 2010
where can i see pics done with this camera?
10:02 pm - Friday, October 15, 2010
hi can someone tell me the difference between the
DMC TZ8EB-S AND DMC TZ8EB-K please,as they can be different prices?thank you
3:28 pm - Saturday, October 16, 2010
How do you feel about the TZ8 in bad light such as inside and eveing pictures? I had a DMC FX33 before and have to say that despite of all GREAT reviews, the evening and inside pictures were terrible…
1:42 pm - Sunday, November 7, 2010
Tired and Confused
Am I to tired, or is it just my imagination?...
But does the Pansaonic TZ8/ZS5 in the sample pics seam to take much more soft focus/blurry/out of focus picture All Around the Edges of the sample pictures. than the Samsung WB600/HZ3OW Does???
Which camera will actually produce Better pictures/PRINTS?
11/16” or bigger/smaller… I was going to buy the Panasonic ZS6 (from Costco) over the Samsung HZ30w/WB600 but now I’m not sure.
Which in the real world is the better camera?
Any Thoughts on comparing their picture printing quality to the Canon. SX130 IS, or the Fuji S2800 or S1800?
Beyond picture producing quality. are any of these cameras less reliable then the others?
I kept Reading how the Panasonic is supposed to be Noticeably Better than the Samsung, But looking at the pictures now. I’m not so sure.
I want to take and print good,(great ;-) ) outdoor scenery pics in a Wide Range of Lighting Conditions. I like macro too, and I want the ZOOM ( AROUND 300mm Equivalent?) and wide angle to. Outdoor “scenery/life” shots are the most important. sure good indoor shots and video would be nice too…
The closer I study these things. the more confused I get… Definitely need sleep, and not the computer.
Thank you for your assistance.
11:45 am - Tuesday, November 9, 2010
Hi all. I have a TZ8 for nearly 6 months now - took it on huge trip to the Azores in the summer plus some general photography since.
I can recommend it as a great all-rounder camera - the lens with the Image stabilisation is just amazing. As someone above said - it’s almost as good as binoculars for distant shots. Even at full zoom and a shaky hand, the Image Stabilse gives a sharp picture - I often just shoot blind when I’m trying to pick something out of the distance - and the camera surprises me every time.
One issue I have is that the camera often tends towards over-exposing shots, so I have adjusted the EV (Using the +/- button over the Menu button on the back) and stopped it down to -2/3. I use it in Program mode more often than intelligent Auto (iA), as I like to mess with exposures a bit more. iA though is quite good too! Another way I get over the over-exposure tendency is moving camera to focus on a scene which has more light, and half-press the shutter-release to hold the exposure and move it back to the shot I want to take. This works in iA as well - But I admit this is being pernickety! It does a great job on its own most times.
I found the burst-mode and high-speed burst mode (where the picture stays live on the LCD so you can track your subject - this doesn’t happen in all cameras, or even in the regular burst mode on this one) is great for photographing wildlife - to get just the right picture. Just delete all the one’s that weren’t quite good enough.
The night-time (or concert) scenes should work well - the TZ8 does have some night-time scene modes - “High-Sensitivity” and “Fireworks” might be the ones to use (and following Keith’s advice above #29 on Exposure and #39 on Experiment with street scenes - I’d be going with the latter big-time!!).
The video function works well too - the ability to zoom in and out whilst filming is a great boon - I gather many compacts do not allow this.
Minor gripes which I have, are mainly about the Compact / SLR differences - I would like to have a view finder to follow wildlife, as the LCD screen can be hard to see in bright light conditions, and I would like if there were TWO strap holders, either side of the camera so that I could wear it around my neck ready to go - rather than have it hanging sideways (I have a long neck-strap which Pixmania supplied and is a good second best - Panasonic really should have provided one rather than the wrist-strap which is useless if you’re active and moving around between shots).
Phew! Long posting - hope there’s something of value there for someone.
11:28 pm - Tuesday, November 9, 2010
Tomorrow I’m going to buy a TZ8 after having been procrastinating for weeks as to what to buy. I had decided on the TZ8 but after reading some more reviews, I sort of thought that maybe I should recondider.
Thanks for your review; it’s definitely a tz8 ....
2:58 pm - Sunday, November 14, 2010
Yep, hope it works out well for you, Roger. Also suggest getting a spare battery too. Battery life is reasonable, but not phenomenal. It uses an ID-coded battery - to prevent cheap clones being used - but I’m not sure if there are ID-code clones available now - there wasn’t any available when I wss buying. I’d imagine someone has that cracked by now!
I wonder where the TZ-9 is available - it’s a TZ-8 with stereo sound (or in other words - a TZ-10 without the battery-gobbling GPS !). It’s mentioned in the manual - but I’ve never seem them advertised.
8:19 pm - Monday, November 15, 2010
I have a question about burst mode: tz6 do continuous shot untill space on memory card end. Does the tz8 the same? I can’t find it in panasonic web-site.
8:51 pm - Monday, November 15, 2010
Max no. of shots in “Hi-Speed Burst” mode is 100.
According to the manual, that can vary from 15 to 100 depending on “recording conditions” and card type.
I’ve just run a check now with an 8GB Class 6 card, and it did 100 shots continuous.
On regular burst mode (selectable in the normal modes like iA, P(rogram), A(perture priority) and S(hutter priority) ) it takes 3 shots. But in the pre-set Scenes - the Hi-Speed Burst is available. That then gives two further options of Image priority or Speed priority - the first does 6 shots per second and the latter does 10 shots per second.
Note that in the Hi-Speed burst mode the Image resolution is set at 3Mpixels.
In the “ordinary” 3-shot burst the camera uses full resolution (or whatever you have set the camera to at that time.)
10:07 pm - Monday, November 15, 2010
thank you for your exhaustive explanation! My mind is clear now. :D
11:13 pm - Monday, November 15, 2010
My mind is clear now. :D
My mind is clear now. :D
:-D If ya want anything **clarified** Barbara- do say the WORD!!
11:34 pm - Monday, November 15, 2010
I can’t seem to find how to change the ev exposure compensation. I press the exposure button but normally just for changing the arperture and shutter speed…how do I do it for exposure compensation? I fell upon it once, but can’t seem to recreate it…
10:36 am - Tuesday, November 16, 2010
It’s the “Up” button over the “Menu/Set” button.
Use the left and right buttons then to adjust.
10:41 am - Tuesday, November 16, 2010
Thank you! That really helps :)
2:46 pm - Tuesday, November 16, 2010
Overall enjoying this camera, very nice detailed shots and rendering… my first with 16:9 which together with the 25mm wide opens up whole new opportunities. Low light not great (my previous camera was a Fuji F30!) however I find the image stabilisation does compensate to a great extent - I was surprised to find I could go as low as 1/20 or less speedwise and still get ok handheld shots. The one really frustrating thing for me was that the higher ISOs (up to 6400) are only available as a mode (high sens) which means you can’t properly adjust the shutter speed- the 3 meg image quality in this mode is ok for the web but the auto speed decision often isn’t quite enough to freeze eg concert shots- taking the EV down to -2 will improve things a bit. Also though the mono sound is ok in retrospect I’d probably have gone for the stereo on the TZ10. Minor gripe too is that the “audio tagging” facility (to add a comment to a pic) is ridiculuously limited at only 5 seconds- the Fuji allowed 30 secs. Still, on balance very versatile and lots to play with!
2:47 pm - Friday, November 19, 2010
Curry’s sells the TZ9 for £219.99
10:03 pm - Tuesday, November 23, 2010
I’m having problems when using my TZ8 with flash in close-up or macro conditions and on the IA auto setting. There is always a shadow in the bottom left corner of the frame. This is apparent both in view back mode and on dowloading to the PC. I’ve had 2 cameras now and they both have the same problem. I’m confident there is nothing obscuring the flash, clumsy fingers, strap etc. Have I had 2 duff cameras or am I doing something wrong? Help would be much appreciated; thanks.
1:02 am - Thursday, December 9, 2010
I’ve never had a problem with Macro flash.
I wondered if you could post some sample pics up somewhere on the web (flickr, Phohtobucket, etc ...) so we could have a look at the effect you’re talking about?
I’ve just done a few shots here - macro, flash, in P mode, and close-up in iA, just as a double-check. All samples OK. I’ve been using this camera extensively for 6 months now and no such prob. Seems very odd to get problem like that on 2 cameras.
@Shellie - thanks for that - I’d have gone for the TZ9 if it were available locally when I was buying - as it has most of the extra features of the TZ10 (stereo, larger LCD..) but not the Battery-sapping GPS. Sounds like the best of the range.
1:26 am - Thursday, December 9, 2010
Hi Euge. Thanks for getting back to me so soon. I’m ashamed to say I’ve never uploaded photos to any website but I’ll have a look at photobucket and see how easy it is!
1:42 am - Thursday, December 9, 2010
No shame in that! I don’t do that much myself either. However - it is pretty straightforward.
All the best!
1:49 am - Thursday, December 9, 2010
Right, I’ve got myself on photobucket and I’ve uploaded some random pics I just did quickly but they demonstrate what I’m talking about. How do you find them, my album name is tuxedocat1’s album?
1:53 am - Thursday, December 9, 2010
OK. Weird that. It’s quite variable. More pronounced the closer the shot - and even then, it varies quite a bit.
I have replicated something like that here by moving a finger over the flash.
You’ve checked for incidentals like that. So, what about the lens covers - are they fully opening? I did have an situation when out on a boat during the summer, and there was a lot of spray - the lens covers wouldn’t open, or close correctly. They’re quite robust generally, but delicate enough at times. Have you checked they’re opening fully?
Interesting that the distance shots are clearer. Does smack of something very close to (or on ) the camera obscuring the flash (or less likely, the lens)
Also - seemed to be a pattern that when pointing down at subject, the problem seemed worse than when camera pointing more horizontal?
That’s all I have at the moment! Good night! :-)
2:19 am - Thursday, December 9, 2010
Euge you’re a star for staying up so late to try and help me. It’s nice to know I’m not going mad anyway.
Good night to you too.
2:32 am - Thursday, December 9, 2010
I’m pretty sure it’s a problem of lens obscuring the light of the flash. Note: lens almost ALWAYS produce a shadow when built-in flash is used. In most situations it is outside of the taken picture, so you don’t see it. It is noticeable only if the lens are extended too far and/or you shot a very close-up object. This problem appears also with SLRs (especially if a non-standard lens are used). That’s one of the resons why the external flash is widely used on SLRs(which is typically much farer from the lens than the built-in one). Speaking of macro photography, there is a variety of macro flashes avalaible on the market - they are usually mounted on the lenses directly(!) to avoid the shadow. But I’m not sure if any of them can be used on this camera particulary.
Anyway, it’s a quite common problem caused by the construction of the camera in general (lens length and the flash being too close to them) and the extreme situation it is used in (macro is such an extreme situation).
1:06 pm - Thursday, December 16, 2010
Thanks Lopak - that makes total sense - the answer was, literally, in front of our noses!!
Since reading your post, I did a bit more playing with the camera.
And I can now replicate the problem exactly as Tuxedocat reported - and it’s a very specific set of conditions when it happens. Your comment about the shadow not showing up in long shots as the camera is “looking beyond” the area of the shadow, triggered me to do some playing!
Here’s what I found -
When the TZ8 is in “Macro Zoom”, and you don’t zoom the lens - i.e. you are leaving it on 1X magnification. When you then get something in focus, and shoot with the flash - the camera “sees” its own shadow!
But if you zoom to 2X in Macro Zoom - then the effect disappears - as the camera lens is now looking beyond the shadow. Because the Zoom scale is not graduated between 1x and 2x, it is not possible to say the exact point where the camera begins to see beyond its shadow - but it looks like something in the order of 1.75x. It’s still just about there, on my camera anyway, at around 1.5x. And it’s definitely gone at 2x.
Brilliantly simple! Thanks again Lopak!
1:36 pm - Thursday, December 16, 2010
Thank you so much for your time and efforts guys. I was going to give up with the TZ8 and exchange it for something else but when I looked at all the reviews (again!) the TZ8 really does come out tops and I just don’t like the design of the canon SX210.
You’ve been really helpful and it is much appreciated. Cheers and Merry Xmas to you!
1:44 pm - Thursday, December 16, 2010
I suppose the lenses don’t extend too much when you zoom to 2x (I don’t have this camera). But the view angle is reasonable narrower then and the shadow gets beyond the picture.
Glad to be able to help. Have a nice day.
1:50 pm - Thursday, December 16, 2010
Great! I’m glad you got to see those replies Tuxedocat!
I’m really trying to justify the camera for myself too - funds being a bit tight with all this recession and belt-tightening going on here in Ireland!
I find myself bringing the camera with me, nearly everywhere - just to have it in case of that “Great Shot” moment. I wouldn’t be doing that if I had bought the SLR I was looking at last May.
And Lopak (and anyone else interested!)- on the TZ8, the lens body extends a little in Macro Zoom mode and doesn’t move any more - the internal elements doing the zooming work. When not in Macro, the lens moves in and out from about 2x to 12x. So, there may be other “shadow situations” with different setups over and above what I toyed about with above.
But keeping your suggestion about lens shadow in mind will help users get around the very occasional, indeed, quite rare, Shadow issues. I’ve used the camera a lot in the last 6 months - including doing a good amount of macro work (incl with flash) and I hadn’t met this problem.
So, I was glad to be of help too Tuxedocat!
Happy Christmas to all.
2:18 pm - Thursday, December 16, 2010
Hi, i’m looking for TZ8 too.
Can someone tell about its performance during night/twilight, i mean the ‘night-mode scene’.
Is it great or having blur like other cams?
8:46 am - Monday, December 20, 2010
love to see good reviews here.
But my friend said that the TZ8 LCD is too sensitive and easy to get scratches.
so, i would like to ask the owners here whether it’s true or not? (hope can help me) :)
i’m looking to buy TZ8, but someone told me to consider Sony Cyber-Shot DSC-wx5b where amazingly at day&night;. But after read some reviews, they say the battery for Sony only capable for not over than 200 photos.
So now i prefer TZ8, come with Leica lens.
The sample photos also great and just asking where could i see the sample photo for night-scene?
9:05 am - Monday, December 20, 2010
SAM, Read from post number 26
Mery Christmas one and all.
9:30 am - Monday, December 20, 2010
With regard to the possibility of a scratched LCD, I purchased a FOLIX anti glare screen protector (£3.99 at Amazon) and I put it on the LCD as soon as I took the camera out of its box new. This should stop the LCD getting damaged and should help with vision.
1:11 pm - Monday, December 20, 2010
I just bought the panasonic dmc-tz8, and i’m having problems with the video. It says on the LCD that it’s in HD, but when i watch the video on the computer the image is really bad and it doesn’t move continuesly (it stops and moves and stops and moves…)and the zoom moves really slowly… I’m using a SanDisk SD 512 MB memory card. PLEASE HELP! I’m conteplating on taking it back to the store…should i?
Thanks so much for your help! :)
9:48 pm - Thursday, December 30, 2010
Hiya Mimi. I am no expert but I am sure that your problem is your SD card. It needs to be at least a class 6 for video; something to do with the speed at which it records. I’ll bet your card is a class 2 or similar. Don’t give up yet; get a new card for only a few pounds. For example a class 10 8gb is less than £10, check the link out:
Good luck and bear with it.
10:18 pm - Thursday, December 30, 2010
Yep, Mimi, I’m seconding Tuxedocat. For video, you really do need a Class 6 or better card. That one Tuxedocat mentions looks very good tho’. Class 10 should be the dogs. Last May 2010, I got a “SanDisk Extreme III SDHC 8Gb High Performance Card - 20Mb/s 133x edition” - which is a Class 6 card. Look for the class number with the letter C around it.
Got it from Amazon too.
No problems with video. All sharp and smooth. Also if playing on a slow PC, may get some jumpiness as they are huge files for a slow or overloaded PC to deal with. All the best.
11:50 pm - Thursday, December 30, 2010
Just a tiny correction to the review I posted above.My old Fuji F30 had a very useful 30 sec audio tag facility allowing you to add 30 secs of descriptive voiceover to a stored still picture. The Panasonic records 5 secs of sound as you take the picture in rec mode but doesn’t allow subsequent audio tagging, a minor drag.
2:12 am - Friday, December 31, 2010
I am deciding between the following cameras Sony Cyber-shot DSC-H55 OR Cybershot DSC-HX5V, Panasonic Lumix DMC-ZX3 OR Lumix DMC-TZ8.
I am amateur user, but would like to learn how to make nice pictures with manual setting, only for home and free time use, posting videos and pictures on a website. I prefer the smaller the better, so wondering if 8x optical zoom is a big step down from 12xzoom. Also would like to make nice pictures in low light and while at motion.
Does anyone know which of these 4 has got the pause function during video? thank you very much for any advice.much appreciated.
1:53 pm - Tuesday, January 4, 2011
I think it might be the Samsung HZ30 W that has the pause feature while recording video…
I have just spent some serious time testing/comparing 4 cameras side by side. the 2 at the “top” ending up being the Panasonic ZS6/zs5 and the Canon SX 130 is.
( the other 2 the Samsung HZ30 W and the Fuji S1800. Samsung, more noise. “Better over all color balance?? To much noise if you blow pictures up. But Price, and best setting and features. It does not remember that you have forced the flash off. when you turn the camera back on. Then Fuji, took the Worst indoor shots! Dead Color and Noise. Outdoors good color?, Good focus in the center of the pictures, But focus gets soft as you leave the center of the shot. It also will often focus on something to the Side of what you are trying to take a picture of, if it is in front of the subject. Instead of focusing on what you want. I Dismissed the Fuji. the Samsung might be good for smaller prints, you can see the noise more and sometimes not quite as good of focus as the Panasonic and the Canon. But still usable, and probably the best control of all settings. and the most “toy settings features” If you don’t want to blow up and frame your shots. I Probably a good camera to play with. I picked it up for only $149. It also has the most zoom 24mm with 15X optical. But If you doing that once in a life time trip down the grand canyon, or that “perfect shot” that you want to blow up and frame… do you want to risk it being on the Samsung… Samsung was also Slower than the Canon or Panasonic to start up and take a picture. If your not that picky about start up time. And only print 4“x6“ pictures for photo albums, then Samsung might be the camera to bye. Great price. Lots of zoom 15x optical, Good color. Lots of Control and Setting/features to play with. I sadly have dismissed the Samsung and the Fuji for myself.)
As far as the quality of the shots for the “finalists” the Canon and The Panasonic go…
The Canon 130 clearly produced the Best Sunset shots. More Pure , clean, higher chroma blue” sky “More colors” better transition from colors/shading, Sunset) And Somewhat “better overall color” particularly with the “warmer colors. (late afternoon/almost sunset shot have a strong Golden Hue to the light though, can be nice, but a bit “stronger than it is in real life“? )
The Panasonic produces “dirty blue (brown blue or grey blue? Particularly at Sunset ) skies. less color/ limited color. and poorer “color shading and transition”, and sometimes? often? “usually”?over exposed as it gets “closer to the sun, during sunset”.
When you look at the “tone” of the picture produced by the Panasonic it seems colder and a bit more lifeless than the canon. A bit of a “bluish wash”? to the picture. say by a” half step or a step” Then canon appears to have a Golden warm wash to the pictures, say by 2 “steps”? The Canon will produce Much Better color for sunsets, and possibly more pleasing pictures printed straight from the camera. But the Panasonic may be More Accurate with Color.( Except with Sunsets) Just a little “cold” And have “better contrast”.
So Canon 130 Much better sunsets. Warmer over all picture. But Panasonic ZS6/5 More accurate color? With “regular scenic pictures, NOT Sunsets, leaning towards “cool blue” and when you click on view full size on the computer, the Panasonic Had Clearer Sharper focus. and in the daylight. often “finer/better”? noise control. The canon never seemed to be able to lock in on that final focus, I mean Never. Obvious when viewed “full size” THE Canons focus was always “Soft/and not quite in “Final” sharp focus”, when viewed Full Size. And its screen goes, a bit grainy indoors at night while Shooting. and while testing I used like 6 sets of new alkaline batteries. Canon says that is should take 130 shots with Alkaline. I could only get 40 shots out of a set of batteries. I asked Canon about the grainy screen indoors, when shooting, and the Not quite being able to “finish focusing” and the batteries only getting 40 shots instead of 130, to see if it was a defective camera. there answer was to tell me not to use digital zoom, (duh!) and to take the batteries out and reset camera. took the batteries out longer than they said. and it all had no affect on the focus ( or settings) results. And when addressing the shortcomings with the batteries, they would not answer my questions, they just told me “lithium ion” batteries would get 330 shots. Nice misdirection and Not answering my questions. and Kind of Meaningless when they already told me the alkaline would get 130 shots. Very Lame and Annoying. Does that mean the “lithium ion batteries will on get 100 shots? ... When It comes down to the bodies of the cameras. the Panasonic is the smallest and lightest. it has all the style of an old candy tin or cough drop tin painted black. Not much to hold on to, and you have to remember not to block the flash.. or the mics. or the focus assist light, etc. the Canon looks more like a “real camera”, and weighs more. It will Not fit in your shirt pocket. maybe your pants pocket. ( it fit in mine. Get a belt case with closed cell foam padding and put it in there anyway.) But the Canon is the easiest to hold on to, it has a more raised pronounced chrome decoration/grip on the front, and some “notches on the back for your thumb , and it is easier to work, especially for “man hands” and the “selection wheel on top it less like to get changed accidentally. and the way it is designed. you naturally do NOT block the flash, the mics, and the focus assist lame. You would pretty much have to Try to interfere with those things while taking a picture. its screen is also adequate for outdoor shots in the sun. I just hope they don’t dim/fade after use. We Really should Demand “eye view finders” on cameras costing $140 and up. Maybe we should just stop buying them until they do that, that and demand that they provide USEFUL, PRINTED operators manuals. a CD is Worthless “out in the field” canons manual is Slight better than Pansasonics, still…. Worthless. The canon Being bigger and heavier is a Relative description though.. Compared to my old Pentax point and shoot IQ90-WR Film camera that I carried all over the place, hiking and back packing, the canon is about “half the size”, and weight. Or even less than half the weight?. It is also more stable if you want to set the camera on something, set the timer, and step pack to get in the picture. The lens train also extends out from the body on the Bottom of the camera, making it more stable when set on something. The Pansasonic is thinner and its lens train bulges out on the side instead, it is More wobbly and like to fall over when setting/balancing it on something.
The Canon also has the manual flip up flash. I like this. I don’t know why many people don’t. the flash will often/usual go off on Cameras, when “not needed” (setting off flash, and raising ISO is the “easy/lazy way out of dealing with dimmer light.) and “mess up the pictures” On the canon, if you don’t flip up the flash, it will not go off on you. You just have to remember to put it up at night or indoors and leave it up for low light shooting Where it is Actually Needed.. You don’t have to worry about the flash going off when you don’t want it to. and the flip up flash raises the flash up above the lens train, minimizing shadow, and red eye.
Although at least on the Panasonic if you “force off the flash” it will remember to keep the flash off when you turn off and on the camera. But just by looking at the camera body you can not tell if the flash is on, or off. ( the Samsung hz30 W will Not remember if you forced of the flash, when you turn it off and on. very annoying. and an noisier/grainier camera. But the Samsung has the best “features/settings and price, and “over all color balance”? though. But not in the running with its noise level showing up more when you blow up your pictures)
Strangely at twilight. the Panasonic ends up with better color range, )In auto or ISO set also?) But Much More noise than usual, and noticably more noise than the canon at twilight. Some how they switch at twilight/Low light. The canons noise was Better, but then its “color range” range ( and contrast?) Went Dead.
The canon also uses Common AA batteries and hook up cable” which is nice. the Panasonic, “Proprietary”
Believe it or not I am leaning towards the Panasonic for it Sharper/ Clearer focus on landscapes,(and everything) and its better Contrast. I am hoping I will not regret losing the canons Clearly “superior sunset picture quality”. For the clearer focus. And “better contrast of the Panasonic. And sometimes that “golden wash” of the canon MAY be a bit much. The Canon “gold wash” also sometimes makes shots of people look really “ tan” as In .. “ I didn’t know you were Indian” or a kind of Jaundiced looking yellow.
Or the Cool blue white wash of cameras can often make people look a bit unhealthy/dead. Hopefully I will be better with the less heavy “blue wash” of the Panasonic?
I also just when taking last shots. I saw somebody with their dog and I put the canons “wheel” on kids/pets later I looked at that shot.. Awful! Blurry! and Noisy? .. And then their is canons whole lack of support on the questions of battery, lack of focus, and screen. My questions were Not Properly addressed. Oh and it might be nice to be able to put the Panasonic in the shirt pocket at a party or something. Although the Canon handles “easier/better” And really is not big or heavy compared to my old film point and shoot camera that did Not even have a 1/4 or a fifth of the zoom of the Canon.
the Panasonic has a Wider zoom lens that takes a somewhat Noticably wider picture. 25mm equiv. for Panasonic 28 MM equiv. for Canon. The Canon will zoom in tighter… I’m thinking the extra wideness will be more useful then the extra zoom…?
To bad none of these Digital point and shoots will take as good of a picture as my old, less expensive, film point and shoot camera.
For some Annoying reason the Canon has the most Limited “pictures size/format” settings. your are limited on the “4:3 or 3:2 or 16:9 setting” options, and the mega pixel settings… for example if you want to take a 16:9 picture to see on your plasma screen TV. You have to take it only in 10MP size, and eat up your memory space on Everything. when the TV Can’t even show 2MP or detail.
So, Panasonic, a Little bit cold/blue, Sharper pictures better contrast, smaller and lighter, but more “difficult” to handle. Canon can’t quite finish focusing/soft. (at full size) Overly warm? (“more off/increase on “golden warmness”, than Panasonic is on “cool blueness” But Canon takes Superior Sunsets! ( and that’s probably it for its superior shot taking ability?) “Bigger and heavier” but “easier to handle, less likely to block things or accidentally change the Canons settings. And it has a flip up flash. ( Panasonics wheel is “not that bad” at accidentally changing, although it may have been getting easier with use…,
Samsungs unintentionally changes wheel settings noticeably easier)
but what is with that battery life on the Canon? Well I stayed up Way to Late, and I’m tired and forgetting stuff. I am going to bed. I spent allot of time and energy checking out, testing and comparing these cameras. hope that was helpful information. And honestly, I am kind of let down with the new digital cameras. my 5 or 6 year old 6MP Kodak camera will take much better indoor pictures with Noticeably Less noise/“smudging” and Better Color than these 2 (4) new “better” cameras.
Frustrating! I am not sure with what new camera I will end up getting. My Kodak apparently just quit today. Dang I Need Sleep! Good Luck!
It is kind of a tough choice between the Canon and the Panasonic…As I may have already said, as of today… I am leaning towards the Panasonic as my next camera. If the Canon Could “finish focusing” and get a good , clear, Sharp focus like the Panasonic… I would probably get the Canon for $179.99 (on sale) instead of the Panasonic that will cost me $219.00 at the moment. ( who knows maybe the Canon I had was Defective, but no help from Canon on that question.)
When it comes to “consistent photo quality“ It Really seems to be hit or miss with these digital cameras
. Just More hit or miss with some than others.
OH and if you decide on the Panasonic “ZS5” , the “ZS6” can be found for about the same price as the ZS5. It is primarily a ZS5 with Possibly an extra button on the back, and Maybe A couple of Minor technical differences? or not… The Primary difference being the ZS6 Does have the bigger?
And Better 3” LCD screen of the ZS7 with “460k dots instead of the 230k dots of the ZS5.
And it is not to hard to find the Canon SX130is for around $180 in “real live stores”.
STRANGE MEMORY NOTE THOUGH… I took the shots on finest settings and the 12 MP setting. the Canon SX130is shots usually came out to be 2.something MB (ie 2.8MB 2.4MB etc.) While the Panasonic ZS6/zs5 would be 5.3 MB etc. The Panasonic‘s “5.3 MB“ seemed more appropriate, since my 6MP Kodak shots come out to be around 3.2MB. I’m wonder how Doubling the MP on the canon is ending up taking up Less memory space, than the 6.1MP Kodak, and about half the memory space of the Panasonic, with the same settings(fine & 12MP) Is there not enough Info on the Canon shots to blow them up well. the Canon 2.8MB seemed very strange compared to the Panasonic 5.3MB for the “same shots”?.....
Does anybody Know anything about that?
3:17 am - Wednesday, January 5, 2011
Hey, I have had the problem with the shadow in the bottom left corner too. I took the camera back and got a new one but still the same probem. I’ll try the 2x thing. It’s still a bit annoying though! Thanks for posting your solution,
6:24 pm - Thursday, January 6, 2011
terrible battery life, I manage to shoot around 150 photos on one charging instead claimed 330. Really frustrating!
6:26 pm - Monday, January 17, 2011
Hi Keith, I anaged to alter the ev setting but might i ask you a couple of question please or anyone else, i would like to know if i put the iso setting on 400 would it take betterpicyures, and also should i leave the flash on for concert pics?
Thxs Caz xx
11:42 am - Wednesday, February 2, 2011
this may well be long winded and I hope you understand what is written.
The ISO measures a camera’s sensitivity to light. A digital camera’s ISO is determined by image sensors on the camera.
The Purpose of ISO.
Lower ISO settings are less sensitive to light and are suitable for well lit subjects. Lower ISO images are also of a finer grain on your printed images. Higher ISO settings are more sensitive to light, so those settings can be used in much lower light situations however lower light levels needs a slower shutter speed this could lead to camera shake giving you blured images.
Higher ISO settings are more effective in low light situations, but they produce grainier images. Lower ISO settings have finer images, but are ineffective when there is little light available.
Most users employ the digital camera’s “Automatic” ISO setting. The camera automatically picks what it determines to be the lowest effective ISO setting. It’s generally a good idea to use the lowest ISO settings possible.
so Caz its really a case of trial and error. You’ll find an happy medium.
Take care and happy snapping.
1:07 pm - Wednesday, February 2, 2011
I have a Panasonic TZ3.
Has anyone tried back to back comparisons with the earlier model ? I’d like to know if the new one actually takes better photos. Of course the resolution will be higher, but that’s not a guarantee of better pictures.
Also, I sometimes find the TZ3 takes poor quality photos indoors under artificial light (in the auto setting). I don’t know how to fix that.
2:26 pm - Sunday, February 6, 2011
Once again experiment take loads of shoots vary the EV value and shutter spped. Do you realise you can even alter the shutter speed it all there on the camera (TZ-3)to use. Poor light conditions can mean different things what do you class artical light conditions, that can range from a simple candle to a flood light at a football stadium.I have seen many images where the one candle has set the mood to an image Photography is a knack of knowing what to do in various circumstances. It all comes with practice.I have been into photography every since I was a youhg lad now some 40 years later even I still get it wrong like this evening about 6:00pm on the way home .... We drove past a field full of Crows thousands of them. I thought unusual scene take a picture. Camera set up in hand long distance shoot telephoto up to max took an image
the strong wind was giving me camera shake and blurred images. I could’nt get any closer to those birds for fear of them taking flight so I was trying all different setting just to get a decent image. So you see its all trail and error and lots of practice. Here is a tip you think the light is poor but your not sure. Use your eye lids before setting the camera up. Close your eyelids slowly and see at what point you can not see that subject you want to photograph. Adjust your camera shutter spped and EV value accordingly.
10:02 pm - Sunday, February 6, 2011
I had a TZ3 which i was more than pleased with, but its aging a little now. I’m looking to upgrade to TZ9 or the Sony Cybershot HX5 which is winning alot of awards at the moment. Any advice?
4:08 pm - Friday, February 25, 2011
I had TZ3 now TZ4 for 2 years stop working from today (it says switch off and then swtich on) wanted to go for new say Canon SX210 bcos it has 14x zoom
but after going through TZ8/10 reviews, I am now confused.
They say ‘known eney is better than unknown friend’ Plus I could re use the TZ4 batteries in TZ8/10? i need to buy camera as sson as possible Camera is always part of me for last 5 yeeas
9:34 pm - Tuesday, March 1, 2011
Help. When I take group photos the faces of the people on the outside of the group are distorted. I have been told this is because of the wide angle lense. Is there anyway this can be overcome
2:39 pm - Saturday, March 12, 2011
the edge out of focus may well be caused by you not setting that camera to focus on wide angle images.
On your camera go to Menu…Go to Metering Mode.
Here you find an image with an oblong shape inside that will be this symbol ( . ) (a dot inside a pair of brackets). This is used for center focusing the edges will be out of focus. The symbol you need is the one which looks like this ( ) (just a pair of brackets). This indicates wide view focussing. The other image just a dot with no brackets indicates the camera will be in spot focusing ideal for close up photography.
3:16 pm - Saturday, March 12, 2011
I’m surprised by that Lesley. I’ve taken group photos and they’ve been fine. I wonder what your set-up for the photos were - distance from group for instance ... and are you sure that the Macro settings were turned off?
Is it out of focus, or distorted? I’m puzzled by this. I’ve taken such a range of photos with the TZ-8 and have had very small number of problem issues.
Distortion is definitely not in there.
Look forward to hear more.
3:20 pm - Saturday, March 12, 2011
check your camera setting.
Go to menu then onto metering mode.
select this image ( ) in an oblong box. This is wide angle focusing. The other image thus ( . ) indicates you have selected center focusing.
Now the image thus . indicates spot focusing ideal for macro photography.
Good luck keep in touch.
4:06 pm - Saturday, March 12, 2011
Wow, this is a good site! So many people prepared to be helpful and give advice… I’m probably going to buy the TZ8, I know it’s probably been superceded by now but it looks good enough for my efforts. I wonder if John (who posted back last year) used his to take photos on the Game Reserve visit he mentioned? Is he still checking this site?? I’m hoping to use it for the same purpose, so if you’re still out there, John, how did it work out?
7:22 pm - Saturday, March 12, 2011
Lumix TZ batteries.
Can any one tell me if batteries TZ3/4 etc are also campatible with all TZ series e.g. TZ8/10 etc?
12:55 am - Sunday, March 13, 2011
the batties you mention are not compatible. The TZ8 /10 are thinner….
8:41 am - Sunday, March 13, 2011
A few days ago I purchased a Panasonic TZ10 (sorry if I am on the wrong site). I own a DSLR camera put needed a new compact camera. After reading reviews for a few months and dithering a long time, decided on this camera.
I am concerned about the photos taken in low light as I enjoy this type of photography and am wondering if this is indeed the right camera for me. (all reviews indicated this camera is not good in low light)
Why I have come to this site is because I am having a shadow problem with my camera in the flash mode. I googled my problem - which is quite pronounced and upsetting!!!!!
In the flash mode there is shawdows on the lower left side. I have never seen this before with any of my old point and shoot cameras.
I can see that the closer my subject the shawdows are darker and larger. However I have also taken some other photos a bit further away and still there is a shadow. On these further away photos I did not notice this problem until I went to check all photos that I have taken so far.
Am wondering if I can live with this problem or to return it and buy the Canon s95 I was thinking about.
Is this problem a problem with all Panasonic Zs series or alot of newer compact cameras?
1:44 am - Thursday, June 2, 2011
Yes, the shadow in flash mode is a little quirk - see above comments around No #61 to #69. Particulary Lopak’s answer at #67 hits the nail on the head! Essentially, it happens when you’re taking a macro shot, and have zoom at less than x2. So, at that close a range, the lens is casting a shadow from the flash. It does not happen any other time - only on very close-up macro - unless you have had a different experience? There’s a number of workarounds - one being to move back a bit and increase zoom to around x2 or more. Or don’t use flash!
9:32 am - Thursday, June 2, 2011
p.s. probably not encountered on other point-and-shoots because their lens doesn’t have as high-powered a zoom as the TZs, so lens on TZ needs to extend a bit further from the body. And causes shadow—and to emphasise - this is ONLY on VERY close up shots - like 2 or 3 inches from the subject!
3:56 pm - Thursday, June 2, 2011
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